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Created by Chef Graziella
Three ingredients whisked over gentle heat until they become something greater than their parts. This is Italian dessert making stripped to its essence, where technique is everything.
Zabaglione requires three ingredients and one skill: the patience to whisk without stopping. There is no cream to add body, no starch to provide stability, no gelatin to forgive your timing. Egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala. That is all. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
The technique is not complicated, but it demands your full attention. You whisk the yolks and sugar until pale and thick. You set the bowl over barely simmering water. You add the Marsala and whisk constantly, never stopping, never walking away, until the mixture swells to four times its original volume and holds soft peaks. This takes eight to ten minutes. It will feel longer.
The moment you stop whisking, zabaglione begins to fall. It waits for no one. Your guests must be seated, their glasses ready, before you begin. This is not a dessert for the hesitant or the easily distracted. It rewards those who commit.
Zabaglione likely originated in the courts of 16th-century Turin, where Piedmontese cooks had access to fine Marsala from Sicily and the eggs of well-fed hens. Legend attributes its invention to a Franciscan friar named Pasquale de Baylon, patron saint of cooks, whose name was corrupted into 'zabaglione' through the Piedmontese dialect. The French later adopted it as sabayon, adding their own variations.
Quantity
6
at room temperature
Quantity
6 tablespoons
Quantity
3/4 cup
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| large egg yolksat room temperature | 6 |
| granulated sugar | 6 tablespoons |
| dry Marsala wine | 3/4 cup |
Fill a medium saucepan with two inches of water and bring it to a gentle simmer. The water should produce small bubbles, not a rolling boil. Violent heat scrambles the eggs. You want steam, not disaster. Have your serving glasses ready and your guests seated.
In a heatproof bowl that will sit comfortably over the saucepan without touching the water, combine the egg yolks and sugar. Whisk vigorously until the mixture becomes pale yellow and thick enough to fall from the whisk in a slowly dissolving ribbon. This takes three to four minutes of steady whisking. Your arm may tire. Continue.
Add the Marsala to the egg mixture and whisk briefly to combine. The mixture will thin considerably. This is correct. The transformation happens over heat.
Set the bowl over the simmering water. The bottom of the bowl must not touch the water. Begin whisking immediately and do not stop. Whisk in a circular motion, reaching the sides and bottom of the bowl where eggs can overcook. The mixture will begin to foam after two minutes. It will continue to expand, becoming lighter in color and dramatically increasing in volume. After eight to ten minutes, the zabaglione should be thick, foamy, and hold soft mounds when the whisk is lifted.
Remove the bowl from the heat and spoon the zabaglione into warmed glasses or coupes at once. Do not wait. Do not admire your work. Zabaglione begins to deflate the moment you stop whisking. It must reach the table within minutes. Serve with biscotti for dipping or spoon it warm over fresh berries.
1 serving (about 80g)
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