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Created by Chef Elsa
Whipped Viennese ganache piped into soft mounds and dusted in dark cocoa. Lighter than any truffle you've had before, because the Viennese don't do heavy when they can do it light.
Ilearned to make these standing at the counter in my grandmother Eva's kitchen in Kent, watching Gretel Beer whip a bowl of ganache with a balloon whisk until her arm shook. She wouldn't let me use the electric mixer. 'You need to feel when it changes,' she told me. She was right. There's a moment when the ganache goes from dense and heavy to something almost mousse-like, lighter in color, airy on the spoon. That's the moment that makes Viennese truffles different from every other chocolate truffle in the world.
Most truffles are simply rolled ganache, dense little spheres coated in cocoa or tempered chocolate. The Viennese Konditorei tradition does something else entirely. The ganache is chilled, then beaten until it holds soft peaks, piped into small mounds, and dusted with the best cocoa you can find. The texture when you bite into one is closer to a chocolate cloud than a chocolate ball. It dissolves against the warmth of your mouth before you've properly chewed. Gretel always said the secrets of Viennese cuisine live in these small details, the extra step that seems unnecessary until you taste the difference.
The ingredients are simple. Good chocolate, cream, butter, a splash of Austrian rum, Vanillezucker. That's it. Five things. Which means every one of them matters. Cheap chocolate will announce itself the moment you take a bite, and no amount of technique can hide it. This is the kind of recipe that rewards you for buying the best you can afford and then doing very little to it, very well.
Vienna's Konditorei tradition of handmade chocolate confections flourished in the 19th century alongside the city's Kaffeehaus culture, where truffles and petit fours were served with afternoon coffee as a matter of course. Austrian Konditoren developed the whipped ganache technique to distinguish their truffles from the denser French style, prizing lightness as a hallmark of Viennese pastry work. The use of Inländerrum, a distinctly Austrian spirit originally created as a domestic substitute for imported Caribbean rum, gives these truffles their unmistakable local character.
Quantity
250g
finely chopped
Quantity
200ml
Quantity
30g
at room temperature
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
50g
for dusting
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| dark chocolate (70% cocoa)finely chopped | 250g |
| Schlagobers (heavy cream) | 200ml |
| unsalted butterat room temperature | 30g |
| rum (Stroh 80 or Inländerrum) | 1 tablespoon |
| vanilla sugar (Vanillezucker) | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | pinch |
| Dutch-process cocoa powderfor dusting | 50g |
Pour the cream into a small saucepan and heat it gently over medium-low. You want it just barely simmering, with tiny bubbles forming around the edges. Don't let it boil. Boiled cream changes flavor and can break your ganache before you've even started. Pull it off the heat the moment you see those first small bubbles rise.
Place the finely chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Pour the hot cream over it in one go, right into the center. Wait sixty seconds. Don't touch it. The heat needs a moment to penetrate the chocolate. Now stir from the center outward in slow, tight circles with a spatula. The mixture will look broken and grainy for a minute. Keep stirring. It will come together into a smooth, glossy emulsion. This is your ganache, and the glossiness tells you the cocoa butter and cream have properly combined.
Once the ganache is smooth and has cooled to about body temperature (touch the side of the bowl, it should feel barely warm), add the soft butter, rum, Vanillezucker, and salt. Stir until the butter melts in completely. The butter gives the truffles that silky, melt-on-your-tongue quality that separates Konditorei work from homemade chocolate balls. The rum is Inländerrum if you can find it, which is what every Austrian pastry kitchen uses. Stroh 80 works beautifully too. The Vanillezucker rounds the whole thing out.
Press a sheet of cling film directly onto the surface of the ganache to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for at least two hours, until it's firm enough to hold its shape when scooped but not rock-hard. If you skip the cling film, a dry crust forms on top and you'll have gritty flecks running through your truffles.
This is the step that makes Viennese truffles what they are. Take the chilled ganache and beat it with a hand mixer or a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Start on low, then increase to medium speed. Beat for two to three minutes until the color lightens from dark brown to a soft, mousy brown and the texture becomes airy and holds soft peaks. You're incorporating air into the chocolate the same way you'd whip cream. The ganache should look like chocolate mousse. If it's still dense and dark, keep going. If it goes grainy, it's too cold. Let it soften for five minutes and try again.
Transfer the whipped ganache to a piping bag fitted with a large round or star tip. Pipe mounds about three centimeters across onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Work quickly. The warmth of your hands through the bag starts softening the ganache, so don't squeeze and hesitate. Confident, steady pressure, a quick twist at the top to break the flow. If you don't have a piping bag, use two teaspoons to scoop and shape rough rounds. The piped shape is traditional Konditorei style, but rustic mounds taste exactly the same.
Refrigerate the piped truffles for thirty minutes until they firm up and hold their shape when touched. They should feel set on the outside but still give slightly when you press gently. Don't leave them overnight uncovered or they'll absorb fridge odors and taste like last night's dinner.
Sift the cocoa powder into a wide, shallow bowl. Working in batches, drop three or four truffles into the cocoa and roll them gently until completely coated. Lift each one out and tap off the excess. The cocoa coating should be even and velvety, not caked on thick. Use Dutch-process cocoa, not natural. It's darker, smoother, and less acidic, which is exactly what you want against the sweet ganache. Arrange the finished truffles on a clean plate or in paper petit four cases. They're ready.
1 serving (about 14g)
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