Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 7-quart Dutch oven
• •Deep-fry thermometer
• •Spider skimmer or two large fish spatulas
• •Wire cooling rack
• •Sheet pan

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the fish

   Rinse the fish under cold water and pat it aggressively dry, inside and out, with paper towels. This matters more than any other step. Wet skin in hot oil means spattering, uneven cooking, and a soggy result. Make three diagonal slashes on each side of the fish, cutting down to the bone at a 45-degree angle. These cuts allow heat to penetrate evenly and create more surface area for crispness. Season the fish inside and out with salt and white pepper, working the seasoning into the slashes.

   Ask your fishmonger to scale and gut the fish but leave the head and tail intact. The head contains the sweetest meat.
2. 2

   Make the nuoc cham

   Combine the minced garlic and sliced chilies in a mortar and pound them lightly to release their oils. You're not making a paste, just bruising them. Transfer to a small bowl. Add the warm water and sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely. Add the fish sauce and lime juice and stir to combine. Taste it. The sauce should hit you with salt first, then sour, then a whisper of sweet, then heat. Adjust until it makes your mouth water. Set aside at room temperature.

   The sauce will mellow as it sits. If making ahead, hold back half the lime juice and add it just before serving for brightness.
3. 3

   Coat the fish

   Combine the rice flour and cornstarch in a shallow dish and whisk together. The rice flour provides shatter, the cornstarch provides browning. Pat the fish dry one more time, then dredge it thoroughly in the flour mixture, pressing the coating into the slashes and cavity. Shake off excess. Let the fish sit for five minutes so the coating adheres.

4. 4

   Heat the oil

   Pour oil into a wok or large Dutch oven to a depth of at least three inches. The oil must be deep enough to submerge most of the fish. Heat over high flame until a deep-fry thermometer reads 375°F. This takes longer than you expect, usually 8 to 10 minutes. Watch the oil's surface: when it shimmers and a pinch of flour sizzles immediately on contact, you're close. Don't rush this.

   A wok's sloped sides require less oil than a Dutch oven and allow you to tilt the oil for better coverage while frying.
5. 5

   Fry the fish

   Carefully lower the fish into the hot oil, sliding it away from you to prevent splashing. The oil will bubble violently. This is correct. Fry without moving for 4 to 5 minutes until the bottom turns deep golden. Use two spatulas or a spider and tongs to carefully flip the fish. Fry the second side for another 4 to 5 minutes. The skin should be golden brown and audibly crackling. If your vessel isn't large enough to submerge the fish, use a ladle to continuously baste the exposed portions with hot oil.

   The fish is done when the flesh near the backbone is opaque and flakes easily. An instant-read thermometer inserted at the thickest point should read 145°F.
6. 6

   Drain and rest

   Transfer the fish to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Do not use paper towels directly under the fish or you'll steam the bottom crust and lose your crispness. Let the fish rest for two minutes. The carryover heat will finish cooking the interior while the exterior stays crisp.

7. 7

   Assemble and serve

   Transfer the fish to a large platter. Drizzle generously with nuoc cham, letting it pool around the fish and seep into the slashes. Scatter the cilantro, mint, and Thai basil over the top in abundant handfuls. Don't be timid with the herbs. Follow with the scallions, crispy shallots, and chopped peanuts. Serve immediately with the remaining nuoc cham in a bowl on the side and plenty of steamed jasmine rice.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out rockfish, black cod, or Pacific snapper from fishermen practicing sustainable hook-and-line methods. The Marine Stewardship Council certification means something. Ask your fishmonger what came in fresh that morning and adapt accordingly.
• •The fish must be completely dry before it touches the oil. I've seen students pat their fish dry, then let it sit while they prepare other ingredients. Moisture reappears. Pat it dry immediately before dredging.
• •If you're nervous about frying whole fish, practice with smaller specimens first. A pound-and-a-half fish is more forgiving than a three-pounder and still feeds two generously.
• •Save the strained frying oil. Cooled completely and stored in a sealed container, it keeps refrigerated for a month and adds depth to future stir-fries and fried rice.
• •Pair this with an off-dry Riesling from the Columbia Valley or a crisp local pilsner. The sweetness tempers the fish sauce's salinity while the acid cuts through the richness.

Advance Preparation

• •The nuoc cham can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Add fresh lime juice before serving to brighten.
• •Crispy fried shallots can be made a week ahead and stored airtight at room temperature.
• •The fish should be cleaned, scored, and seasoned no more than 30 minutes before frying. Longer salting draws moisture to the surface.
• •Wash and dry all herbs up to a day ahead. Store wrapped in damp paper towels in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 245g)