Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 12-inch braising pan or Dutch oven
• •Meat mallet
• •Kitchen twine

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the filling

   Tear the bread into small pieces and place in a bowl. Pour the milk over and let it soak for 10 minutes. The bread should absorb the milk completely. Squeeze out any excess liquid with your hands. The bread should be moist but not dripping. Place the soaked bread in a clean bowl.

   Day-old bread is essential. Fresh bread becomes gummy. The bread provides body to the filling without heaviness.
2. 2

   Complete the filling

   Add the grated Parmigiano, beaten egg, marjoram, garlic paste, and nutmeg to the soaked bread. Season with a generous pinch of salt and white pepper. Mix thoroughly with your hands until the filling is homogeneous. It should hold together when squeezed but remain soft. Taste it. Adjust the seasoning now, not later.

3. 3

   Pound and season the veal

   Place each cutlet between sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, pound gently from the center outward until uniformly thin, about 1/8 inch. The cutlets should be roughly rectangular, about 4 by 6 inches. Season both sides lightly with salt and white pepper.

   Pound with care. Thin is good. Torn is not. If the cutlet develops holes, you have been too aggressive. The meat must remain intact to hold the filling.
4. 4

   Fill and roll

   Lay a cutlet flat on your work surface. Place about 2 tablespoons of filling in a line along the short end, leaving a half-inch border on three sides. Fold the sides inward over the filling, then roll tightly from the filled end. The roll should be compact, about 3 inches long. Tie securely with kitchen twine at both ends and once in the middle. Repeat with remaining cutlets.

5. 5

   Brown the rolls

   In a heavy braising pan or Dutch oven that will hold all the rolls in a single layer, heat the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat until the butter foam subsides. Add the rolls and brown on all sides, turning gently with tongs, about 8 minutes total. The exterior should be golden, not pale. Remove the rolls to a plate.

6. 6

   Build the braising liquid

   Reduce heat to medium. Add the sliced onion to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and golden, about 8 minutes. Pour in the wine and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom. Let the wine simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a gentle simmer.

7. 7

   Braise the tomaxelle

   Return the rolls to the pan, nestling them into the liquid. The liquid should come about halfway up the sides of the rolls. Cover the pan and reduce heat to low. Braise gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour, turning the rolls once at the halfway point. The veal should be completely tender when pierced with a thin knife.

   The braise must be gentle. Vigorous bubbling toughens veal. You want the laziest simmer, a bubble rising here and there.
8. 8

   Finish and serve

   Transfer the rolls to a warm serving platter and remove the twine. If the braising liquid seems thin, increase heat and reduce it until it coats a spoon lightly. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon the sauce and onions over the rolls. Serve immediately, two rolls per person, with crusty bread to capture the sauce.

Chef Tips

• •Ask your butcher for veal cutlets from the leg, cut thin. If they are too thick, you can pound them yourself, but starting with thin cutlets saves effort and produces more even results.
• •The traditional filling sometimes includes sweetbreads or calf's brain for richness. This version omits them for accessibility, but if you have access to quality offal and the inclination, a small amount adds depth.
• •Ligurian white wines like Vermentino or Pigato are traditional for the braise. Their mineral quality complements the delicate veal. A dry Soave or Pinot Grigio will also serve.
• •Tomaxelle reheat well. Make them a day ahead, refrigerate in their sauce, and warm gently before serving. The flavors deepen overnight.

Advance Preparation

• •The filling can be made several hours ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.
• •The rolls can be filled and tied up to 4 hours ahead, covered and refrigerated. Brown them cold; they hold their shape better.
• •The completed dish keeps refrigerated for 3 days. Reheat gently in the sauce, adding a splash of broth if it has thickened too much.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 275g)