The stuffed mushroom has been a fixture of American entertaining since the 1950s, when hostesses discovered that guests will eat almost anything presented in an edible vessel. Most versions deserve their forgettable reputation: soggy caps, gummy breadcrumb fillings, the whole affair tasting vaguely of nothing. This is not that mushroom.

We're filling these with lump crabmeat from the Chesapeake or wherever your fishmonger sources quality swimmers. The cream cheese provides richness and structure without overwhelming the delicate sweetness of the crab. Fresh herbs cut through. A whisper of lemon brightens everything. The mushroom itself becomes a vehicle for celebration, tender and earthy against the luxurious filling.

I've served these at New Year's gatherings for decades. They disappear with a speed that still surprises me. The secret to sanity when cooking for crowds is preparation: these can be assembled a full day ahead, refrigerated on sheet pans, then slid into a hot oven while you're greeting guests. Twenty minutes later, you're carrying out a platter of golden, fragrant bites that look like you've been working all day. You haven't. That's the point.

Good entertaining means enjoying your own party. These mushrooms make that possible.