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Created by Chef Elsa
Speckled Käferbohnen in a sharp vinegar Marinade, finished with a generous pour of dark Steirisches Kürbiskernöl. The salad that anchors every Styrian Brettljause and proves legumes need nothing but honesty.
The first time I tasted Käferbohnensalat I was maybe ten years old, sitting at a wooden table outside a Buschenschank in southern Styria with Gretel and my grandmother Eva. Gretel ordered a Brettljause, and when it arrived, this salad sat right in the middle of the board between the Verhackert and the sliced Schweinsbraten. Creamy speckled beans in a pool of something so dark green it was nearly black. I dipped my bread in the oil before I even tried the beans. Gretel laughed and said that was exactly the right instinct.
Käferbohnen are runner beans, large and beautiful, with purple and black speckles across a pale skin that looks almost hand-painted. Styrians grow them on tall poles in kitchen gardens and along farm fences. When dried, they keep for months. When cooked, they turn creamy and dense with a flavour somewhere between chestnut and butter bean, but earthier than either. They hold a Marinade the way good bread holds soup: completely, without falling apart.
The dressing is vinegar-forward, as all Austrian salad Marinades should be. Sharp Apfelessig, thinly sliced white onion, salt, pepper, and then the Kürbiskernöl poured on at the very end. The oil is never mixed into the dressing. It sits on top, dark and glossy, swirling into the vinegar when you take your first forkful. This is the simplest salad in the Styrian kitchen and one of the best things I know how to make.
Käferbohnen have been cultivated in Styria since the 17th century, brought to Austria from the Americas via Spain. The name means 'beetle beans,' referring to their speckled markings that resemble beetle wings. Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. received protected geographical indication status from the EU in 1996, recognizing that genuine pumpkin seed oil can only come from a specific variety of hull-less pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo var. styriaca) grown and pressed in designated Austrian regions. Together, the beans and the oil form what Styrians consider their most distinctive culinary pairing, served at nearly every Buschenschank and Heuriger in the province.
Quantity
250g dried
Quantity
1
Quantity
1 medium
halved and very thinly sliced into half-moons
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
freshly ground, to taste
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
1 small handful
roughly chopped
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Käferbohnen (scarlet runner beans) | 250g dried |
| bay leaf | 1 |
| white onionhalved and very thinly sliced into half-moons | 1 medium |
| Apfelessig (apple cider vinegar) | 3 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard or mild Austrian Senf | 1 teaspoon |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | freshly ground, to taste |
| Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. (Styrian pumpkin seed oil) | 3 tablespoons |
| neutral oil (sunflower or rapeseed) | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 1 small handful |
| roasted pumpkin seeds (Kürbiskerne) (optional) | for finishing |
Place the dried Käferbohnen in a large bowl and cover with plenty of cold water, at least three times their volume. They will swell to nearly double their size. Leave them on the counter overnight, or for at least eight hours. Don't skip the soak. Käferbohnen are dense, thick-skinned beans and they need time to hydrate evenly. If you try to rush them, you'll end up with beans that are chalky in the center and splitting at the edges.
Drain and rinse the soaked beans. Place them in a large pot, cover with fresh cold water by about five centimeters, and add the bay leaf. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low. The surface should barely move. Cook for sixty to ninety minutes, checking after an hour. The beans are done when they're completely tender and creamy inside but still holding their shape. Bite one in half. If there's any graininess at the center, keep going. Do not salt the water. Salt toughens the skins of cooking beans and you'll wait forever for them to soften.
Drain the beans and discard the bay leaf. While they are still warm, transfer them to a wide bowl. This is the most important moment in the recipe. Warm beans absorb a Marinade. Cold beans sit in it. In a small bowl, whisk together the Apfelessig, mustard, sugar, a good pinch of salt, several grinds of black pepper, and the neutral oil. Pour this Marinade over the warm beans and fold gently with a spoon, taking care not to crush them. Käferbohnen are tender once cooked and they break easily.
Scatter the thinly sliced onion over the dressed beans and fold it through. The slices should be thin enough to soften in the residual warmth and the acid of the vinegar. Let the salad sit at room temperature for at least thirty minutes, giving it a gentle stir halfway through. The beans will drink up the Marinade and the onion will lose its raw edge. Taste and adjust the salt and vinegar. Austrian salad Marinades are vinegar-forward. If it doesn't taste a little sharp on its own, it will taste flat once the beans absorb it.
Just before serving, scatter the chopped parsley over the salad. Pour the Steirisches Kürbiskernöl over the top in a slow, generous drizzle. Do not stir it in. The oil should pool and swirl across the surface, dark green verging on black, catching the light. Scatter a few roasted Kürbiskerne on top if you have them. Serve at room temperature. This is a salad that does not want to be cold. The flavour opens up when the beans are somewhere between warm and cool, and the Kürbiskernöl tastes richest at room temperature. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 215g)
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