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Created by Chef Elsa
Paper-thin cucumbers dressed sharp with Apfelessig and finished with a swirl of dark Steirisches Kürbiskernöl, the nutty, ink-green oil that makes everything it touches unmistakably Styrian.
The first time I saw Kernöl poured over a salad, I was maybe eight years old, sitting at a wooden table somewhere in the Salzkammergut on one of those summer trips with Gretel and my grandmother Eva. A woman at the next table drizzled something nearly black over sliced cucumbers and I thought she'd ruined them. Eva saw my face and laughed. She ordered the same salad for me. One bite and I understood. That dark, nutty oil tasted like nothing I'd ever had. I've been in love with it since.
Steirischer Gurkensalat is the salad Austrians eat all summer long. You'll find it on every Gasthaus menu in Styria from June through September, and in my restaurant in Salzburg it's on the table before you've even decided what else you want. The cucumbers must be sliced paper-thin, almost translucent. The Marinade is sharp with good cider vinegar, softened by a whisper of sugar, and thinned with a splash of water so it soaks into every slice. Then, right before serving, you pour the Kernöl over the top in a dark green swirl and let it sit there, glistening.
Gretel always said Austrian salads are honest food. No thick dressings hiding what's underneath. No complicated technique standing between you and the ingredient. Good cucumbers, good vinegar, good oil. That's the whole secret. The Kernöl does the talking, and if you've never tasted Steirisches Kürbiskernöl before, this salad is the place to start.
Styria, Austria's southeastern province, has been cultivating a specific hull-less pumpkin seed (Cucurbita pepo var. styriaca) since the 18th century, when a natural mutation produced seeds without their hard outer shell. The dark green oil pressed from these seeds received the European Union's protected geographical indication (g.g.A.) in 1996, meaning only oil produced in designated regions of Styria, Lower Austria, Burgenland, and Vienna from these specific pumpkin seeds can carry the name Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. Styrians treat it the way Tuscans treat their olive oil: a finishing condiment, never heated, poured generously over salads, soups, and even vanilla ice cream.
Quantity
2 large (about 800g total)
Quantity
1 1/2 teaspoons
for drawing out moisture
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1 small clove
finely grated
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
sliced into very thin rings
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| European cucumbers | 2 large (about 800g total) |
| fine saltfor drawing out moisture | 1 1/2 teaspoons |
| Apfelessig (apple cider vinegar) | 4 tablespoons |
| cold water | 2 tablespoons |
| granulated sugar | 1/2 teaspoon |
| garlic (optional)finely grated | 1 small clove |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. (Styrian pumpkin seed oil) | 3 tablespoons |
| white or sweet onionsliced into very thin rings | 1 small |
Peel the cucumbers if the skin is thick or waxy. If you're lucky enough to have thin-skinned ones from a garden or a farmers' market, leave them. Slice them as thin as you possibly can, ideally on a mandoline. You want translucent rounds you could nearly read a newspaper through. This is not a rough chop salad. The paper-thin slices are the whole point because they absorb the Marinade completely, and every bite delivers the full vinegar and oil flavor instead of just tasting like cucumber.
Place the cucumber slices in a large bowl and sprinkle with the salt. Toss gently with your hands so every slice gets coated. Let them sit for fifteen to twenty minutes. The salt draws out the water that would otherwise dilute your Marinade and leave you with a soggy puddle at the bottom of the bowl. After twenty minutes, take handfuls of the salted cucumbers and squeeze them firmly over the sink. Be thorough. You want to press out as much liquid as possible. The cucumbers should feel limp and pliable, not crisp.
Whisk together the Apfelessig, cold water, sugar, grated garlic if using, and a generous grinding of black pepper. The dressing should taste sharp and bright. The water thins it just enough that it coats the cucumbers instead of pooling at the bottom. The sugar is there to round the vinegar's edges, not to make it sweet. If you can taste sweetness, you've added too much.
Put the squeezed cucumbers in a clean bowl with the thin onion rings. Pour the Marinade over them and toss gently but thoroughly. Cover and let the salad sit in the fridge for at least thirty minutes before serving. An hour is better. This resting time lets the cucumbers drink up the Marinade. Taste and adjust the seasoning. It should be clearly vinegar-forward with a gentle background sweetness.
Just before serving, drizzle the Steirisches Kürbiskernöl over the top. Don't toss it in. Let it pool and swirl in dark green ribbons over the pale cucumber slices. Serve the salad cool, straight from the fridge. The Kernöl is never mixed through aggressively. It sits on top, thick and nutty and beautiful, and every forkful picks up a different amount. That variation is part of the pleasure.
1 serving (about 225g)
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