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Peak-season squash, okra, and vine-ripe tomatoes simmered low and slow in bacon-kissed pot liquor, then crowned with pillowy cornmeal dumplings that steam to golden perfection right in the pot. This is the dish that made porch suppers famous.
This stew belongs to the women who cooked through Southern summers before air conditioning. They understood something we've forgotten: summer vegetables, treated with respect and simmered gently, create their own sauce. No stock required. The tomatoes break down into a silky broth. The okra releases its natural thickener. The squash melts at the edges while holding its shape at the center. This is pot liquor in its purest form.
I first encountered this style of cooking in a kitchen outside Charleston, watching a grandmother who measured nothing and tasted constantly. She dropped her cornmeal dumplings onto the simmering vegetables with the confidence of someone who'd done it a thousand times. The lid went on. Twenty minutes later, she lifted it to reveal golden puffs that had steamed to impossible lightness while absorbing the savory vapors rising from below.
The genius of this dish lies in its democracy. Every summer vegetable belongs here. Use what your garden offers or what looks best at the farmers market. Yellow squash and zucchini are traditional, but pattypans work beautifully. Fresh corn cut from the cob adds sweetness. Lima beans or field peas contribute heft. The only rule is ripeness. Mealy supermarket tomatoes have no place in this pot. Wait for August. Wait for tomatoes that smell like tomatoes. The stew will reward your patience.
This feeds a crowd and travels well, making it ideal for potlucks and covered-dish suppers. The dumplings are best served within an hour of cooking, but the stew base improves overnight. Make the vegetables a day ahead, refrigerate, then reheat gently and add fresh dumplings just before serving.
Quantity
4 slices
cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
2 pounds
cut into 1-inch pieces
Quantity
1 pound
sliced 1/2-inch thick
Quantity
2 pounds
cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
2 cups (about 4 ears)
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
2
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
3/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
1 large
Quantity
3 tablespoons
melted
Quantity
for serving
chopped
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| thick-cut baconcut into 1/2-inch pieces | 4 slices |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| mixed summer squash (yellow squash and zucchini)cut into 1-inch pieces | 2 pounds |
| fresh okrasliced 1/2-inch thick | 1 pound |
| ripe tomatoescored and roughly chopped | 2 pounds |
| fresh corn kernels | 2 cups (about 4 ears) |
| fresh lima beans or butter beans | 1 cup |
| vegetable or chicken stock | 4 cups |
| tomato paste | 2 tablespoons |
| apple cider vinegar | 1 tablespoon |
| smoked paprika | 2 teaspoons |
| dried thyme | 1 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/2 teaspoon |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| kosher salt | to taste |
| freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| fine yellow cornmeal | 1 1/2 cups |
| all-purpose flour | 1/2 cup |
| sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| baking powder | 2 teaspoons |
| baking soda | 1/2 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 3/4 teaspoon |
| buttermilk | 1 cup |
| egg | 1 large |
| unsalted buttermelted | 3 tablespoons |
| fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)chopped | for serving |
| hot sauce (optional) | for serving |
Set a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the bacon pieces and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fat has rendered and the bacon is crisp and golden, about 8 minutes. You'll hear the sizzle calm as the moisture cooks out. The kitchen will smell like every good Southern meal you've ever had. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving the rendered fat in the pot.
Add the diced onion to the bacon fat and cook until softened and translucent, about 5 minutes. The onion should turn golden at the edges but not brown. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds more, just until fragrant. Stir in the tomato paste and smoked paprika, cooking for another minute to toast the spices and deepen their flavor. The paste will darken slightly and begin to stick to the pot. This is good. You're building fond.
Add the chopped tomatoes to the pot and stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Let the tomatoes cook until they begin to break down and release their juices, about 5 minutes. Use your wooden spoon to crush any large pieces against the side of the pot. The tomatoes will transform from distinct chunks into a rough, chunky sauce. This is your pot liquor base taking shape.
Pour in the stock and add the bay leaves, dried thyme, cayenne, and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce heat to maintain a lazy simmer. Add the lima beans first since they take longest to cook. After 10 minutes, add the squash, okra, and corn. Stir gently to combine. The stew should bubble slowly, just enough to see occasional movement at the surface. Cover and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until the squash is tender but not falling apart and the lima beans yield easily to a fork.
Stir in the apple cider vinegar and taste the broth. It should be savory, slightly sweet from the corn and tomatoes, with a whisper of heat at the finish. Adjust salt and pepper as needed. The vinegar brightens everything without tasting distinctly sour. Remove the bay leaves. The stew base is now complete.
While the vegetables simmer, prepare the dumpling batter. In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a smaller bowl or measuring cup, beat together the buttermilk, egg, and melted butter. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and stir with a fork just until combined. The batter will be thick and slightly lumpy. Do not overmix. Gluten development is your enemy here. A few streaks of flour are preferable to tough dumplings.
Ensure the stew is at a steady, gentle simmer. Using two soup spoons, drop rounded tablespoons of batter onto the surface of the stew, spacing them about an inch apart. You should get 12 to 14 dumplings. They will look rough and ungainly. This is correct. They'll puff and smooth as they steam. Do not stir after adding the dumplings. Do not lift the lid to check on them.
Cover the pot tightly and cook for 18 to 20 minutes without lifting the lid. I mean this. The steam trapped inside is doing the cooking. Every time you peek, you release heat and extend the cooking time. After 18 minutes, the dumplings should have doubled in size, feel firm to gentle pressure, and show golden tops where they rose above the liquid. Insert a toothpick into the center of one dumpling. It should come out clean.
Remove the pot from heat. Scatter the reserved bacon pieces over the top along with the chopped parsley. Ladle generous portions into shallow bowls, making sure each serving gets plenty of vegetables, broth, and at least one dumpling. Pass hot sauce at the table for those who want it. This stew is best served immediately while the dumplings are at their lightest, though leftovers reheat surprisingly well the next day.
1 serving (about 370g)
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