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Created by Chef Thomas
Hot-smoked trout folded roughly with crème fraîche, horseradish, and dill, the kind of thing you put together in ten minutes and then wonder why you don't make it every week.
The trout was in the fridge from Saturday's market. Two fillets, still in their paper, the skin golden and taut from the smokehouse. I'd bought them without a plan, which is often the best way to buy fish. The plan arrives later, usually around six o'clock, when someone is hungry and you need something good in a quarter of an hour.
This is barely a recipe. You break the fish apart with your fingers, fold it through crème fraîche with some horseradish and dill, squeeze lemon over it, and put it on the table with toast. The whole thing takes ten minutes if you stop to make tea halfway through. It's lighter than mackerel pâté, more delicate, with a sweetness to the smoke that the horseradish cuts through cleanly.
I keep coming back to it because it solves the particular problem of people arriving before you've had time to cook. A bowl of this, some good bread, a few cornichons if you have them, and nobody is going hungry while you work out what else to do. I wrote it down in the notebook once as "trout, cream, dill, Friday, enough." It was.
The dill matters. Not as decoration, but as a proper ingredient, grassy and sweet and slightly anise-scented, running through the whole thing. Use it generously. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract, and this one is mostly about the fish and what you put next to it.
Quantity
250g
Quantity
150g
Quantity
1-2 teaspoons
finely grated
Quantity
half
juiced
Quantity
small bunch
fronds picked and roughly chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to serve
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| hot-smoked trout fillets | 250g |
| crème fraîche | 150g |
| fresh horseradishfinely grated | 1-2 teaspoons |
| lemonjuiced | half |
| fresh dillfronds picked and roughly chopped | small bunch |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| good toast or sourdough | to serve |
Peel away the skin from the trout fillets and discard it. Break the fish into a bowl, using your fingers rather than a knife. You want some pieces chunky and others falling into flakes. A pâté with texture is more interesting than one blended to a paste. Pick through as you go and pull out any fine bones. You'll find them by feel.
Add the crème fraîche and fold it through the fish gently. You're not making a mousse. You want to see pale streaks running through the pink, not a uniform colour. Add the horseradish, starting with a teaspoon. It should warm the back of your throat without overwhelming the trout, which is a gentle fish and doesn't need shouting at.
Squeeze in the lemon juice. It brightens everything. Add most of the chopped dill, keeping a little back for the top. Season with salt and pepper, then taste it on a piece of bread, because that's how it'll be eaten. Adjust the lemon, the horseradish, the salt. This is where it becomes yours. Spoon it into a bowl, scatter the remaining dill over the top, and serve with good toast.
1 serving (about 85g)
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