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Scampi alla Busara

Scampi alla Busara

Created by Chef Graziella

The fishermen's supper from Trieste and the Istrian coast, where sweet Adriatic scampi meet a spirited sauce of tomatoes, wine, garlic, and breadcrumbs. You will need bread and napkins.

Main Dishes
Italian
Dinner Party
Date Night
20 min
Active Time
25 min cook45 min total
Yield4 servings

Busara is the cooking of the Adriatic fishing villages, where the catch goes from net to pan with nothing in between but a fisherman's hunger and his wife's practical wisdom. The word itself means something like "simple" or "peasant style" in the Venetian dialect, though there is nothing simple about the flavors this method produces.

The tomato here is present but restrained, a backdrop for the sweetness of impeccably fresh shellfish. The wine sharpens the sauce. The garlic, sliced thin and cooked only until fragrant, provides perfume rather than assault. And the breadcrumbs, toasted separately and scattered at the last moment, give texture and absorb the juices that would otherwise be lost.

This is not a dish for those who fear getting their hands dirty. You eat busara with your fingers, cracking shells, sucking heads, sopping up sauce with torn bread. It is the kind of meal that makes conversation stop and sleeves get rolled up. If you want refinement, order something else. If you want to taste the Adriatic, this is how.

Busara originated in the fishing communities along the Istrian peninsula and the Gulf of Trieste, where the borders of Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia now meet. Fishermen's wives developed the technique to cook whatever the day's catch yielded, always with tomato, wine, and the coarse breadcrumbs that stretched the meal and thickened the sauce. The dish survives in nearly identical form in trattorias on all three sides of the modern border.

The technique, the tradition, and the story behind every dish.

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Ingredients

whole scampi or large head-on prawns

Quantity

2 pounds

extra virgin olive oil

Quantity

1/3 cup

garlic cloves

Quantity

4

sliced thin

red pepper flakes

Quantity

1/2 teaspoon

dry white wine

Quantity

3/4 cup

San Marzano tomatoes

Quantity

1 can (14 ounces)

crushed by hand

fish stock or water

Quantity

1/2 cup

coarse fresh breadcrumbs

Quantity

1/2 cup

fresh flat-leaf parsley

Quantity

3 tablespoons

chopped

kosher salt

Quantity

to taste

crusty bread

Quantity

for serving

Equipment Needed

  • Wide 12-inch skillet or braiser with lid
  • Kitchen shears
  • Small skillet for toasting breadcrumbs

Instructions

  1. 1

    Prepare the scampi

    Rinse the scampi under cold water and pat them thoroughly dry. Using kitchen shears, cut along the back of each shell from head to tail, just deep enough to expose the intestinal vein. Remove the vein with the tip of a knife. Leave the shells on. The shells give flavor to the sauce, and eating busara is meant to be an act of participation, not passive observation.

    True scampi (Nephrops norvegicus) are langoustines from the Adriatic. Large head-on prawns or spot prawns substitute adequately. Avoid peeled, frozen shrimp. The dish depends on the shells.
  2. 2

    Toast the breadcrumbs

    In a small dry skillet over medium heat, toast the breadcrumbs, stirring constantly, until golden and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer immediately to a bowl. They will continue to darken if left in the hot pan. Set aside.

  3. 3

    Build the sauce base

    In a wide, heavy skillet or braiser large enough to hold the scampi in a single layer, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is pale gold and fragrant, about 90 seconds. The garlic must not brown. Brown garlic turns bitter and ruins the dish.

  4. 4

    Add wine and tomatoes

    Pour in the white wine. It will sizzle and steam. Let it bubble vigorously until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes and fish stock. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer. Season with salt. Let the sauce cook for 8 to 10 minutes until it thickens slightly and the raw tomato taste cooks out.

  5. 5

    Cook the scampi

    Nestle the scampi into the sauce in a single layer. Spoon sauce over them. Cover the pan and cook for 3 minutes. Uncover, turn each scampi, and cook uncovered for another 3 to 4 minutes, until the shells turn bright coral and the flesh is just opaque. The scampi are done when the meat pulls easily from the shell. Do not overcook. Rubbery scampi are an insult to the fisherman who caught them.

    Cooking time depends entirely on size. Small prawns may need only 4 minutes total. Large langoustines may need 8. Watch the flesh, not the clock.
  6. 6

    Finish and serve immediately

    Remove from heat. Scatter the toasted breadcrumbs and chopped parsley over the top. Bring the pan directly to the table while still sizzling. Serve with abundant crusty bread. The bread is not optional. It exists to mop up every drop of that sauce. Anyone who leaves sauce in the pan has missed the point entirely.

Chef Tips

  • Head-on shellfish release flavor compounds from their heads into the sauce that no headless shrimp can provide. Seek out whole langoustines, spot prawns, or head-on Gulf shrimp from a fishmonger you trust.
  • Make your own breadcrumbs from day-old bread. Tear the bread, pulse briefly in a food processor, and leave them coarse. The fine powder sold in canisters has no place in this dish.
  • Use a wine you would drink. The sauce concentrates everything. Cheap wine makes cheap sauce. A crisp Friulano or Malvasia from the region is traditional and correct.
  • Serve this with the same white wine you used in cooking. The pairing is already done for you.

Advance Preparation

  • The sauce base can be made several hours ahead through the simmering stage, then reheated before adding the scampi. The scampi must be cooked just before serving.
  • Toast the breadcrumbs up to a day ahead and store in an airtight container at room temperature.
  • This dish does not reheat. Do not attempt leftovers. Cook only what you will eat immediately.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 200g)

Calories
300 calories
Total Fat
19 g
Saturated Fat
3 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
15 g
Cholesterol
175 mg
Sodium
650 mg
Total Carbohydrates
9 g
Dietary Fiber
1 g
Sugars
2 g
Protein
25 g

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