Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Potato ricer or sturdy masher
• •12-inch cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet
• •Thin flexible spatula for flipping
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the remoulade

   Combine the mayonnaise, chopped capers, cornichons, whole grain mustard, Dijon, lemon juice, hot sauce, and tarragon in a small bowl. Stir until uniform. Taste it. The sauce should be tangy and assertive, bright enough to stand up to the richness of the fried cakes. Adjust lemon or hot sauce as your palate dictates. Cover and refrigerate while you prepare the salmon cakes. The flavors will marry and improve as they sit.

   Make the remoulade up to three days ahead. It only gets better.
2. 2

   Prepare the salmon

   If using fresh salmon, check for pin bones by running your fingers against the grain of the flesh. Remove any you find with tweezers or needle-nose pliers. Flake the fish into a large bowl, breaking it into rough half-inch pieces. You want texture, not paste. If using canned salmon, drain thoroughly and remove any skin or large bones (the small soft bones are edible and add calcium). Flake gently, keeping some larger pieces intact.

3. 3

   Combine the cake mixture

   Add the riced potato to the salmon. The potato should be cold or at room temperature, never warm, or it will make the mixture gummy. Add the beaten egg, minced shallot, celery, dill, parsley, Dijon mustard, salt, black pepper, cayenne, and 1/4 cup of the panko. Fold everything together with a rubber spatula, using a gentle hand. Overmixing compacts the salmon and produces dense, heavy cakes. The mixture should just hold together when you squeeze a handful. If it feels too loose, add another tablespoon of panko.

   The mixture improves with 30 minutes of refrigeration. The potato absorbs moisture and the cakes hold their shape better during frying.
4. 4

   Form the cakes

   Spread the remaining 3/4 cup panko on a plate. Divide the salmon mixture into 8 equal portions. With damp hands, form each portion into a cake about 3 inches across and 3/4 inch thick. Press gently to compact, then dredge each cake in panko, patting to adhere on both sides. The coating should be thin but complete. Set the coated cakes on a baking sheet or plate.

5. 5

   Fry the cakes

   Heat the oil in a large cast iron or heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Wait until the oil shimmers and a pinch of panko sizzles immediately on contact. This takes about 2 minutes. Lay the cakes in the pan without crowding, working in batches if necessary. Cook undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until the bottom turns deep golden brown. Listen for a steady, gentle sizzle. If the oil pops angrily, reduce the heat. Flip carefully with a thin spatula and cook another 3 minutes until the second side matches the first.

   Resist the urge to press down on the cakes or move them around. Let the crust form undisturbed.
6. 6

   Rest and serve

   Transfer the finished cakes to a wire rack set over a baking sheet. This keeps the bottom crust crisp instead of steaming against a plate. Let them rest for 2 minutes while you fry any remaining batches. Serve two cakes per person with a generous spoonful of remoulade alongside (never on top, or you'll destroy your crust). Provide lemon wedges for those who want extra brightness. A simple green salad dressed with vinaigrette is all you need to complete the plate.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out wild-caught Pacific salmon, whether fresh or canned. Sockeye and coho have the flavor and color that farmed Atlantic salmon lacks. The fish counter may cost more, but the canned goods aisle offers wild salmon at reasonable prices. Read the label: look for Alaska or Pacific Northwest origins.
• •A potato ricer produces the lightest texture for binding. If you don't own one, mash the potato thoroughly and let it cool completely before adding. Lumps create uneven texture in the finished cakes.
• •Day-old cakes reheat beautifully in a 400 degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes. The crust crisps back up almost as well as fresh. Don't microwave them unless you enjoy soggy disappointment.
• •The remoulade works splendidly with crab cakes, fried oysters, or cold roast beef sandwiches. Make a double batch and keep it on hand.

Advance Preparation

• •Remoulade can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. The flavors develop and improve with time.
• •Salmon cake mixture can be prepared and refrigerated up to 8 hours ahead. Form and bread the cakes just before frying.
• •Formed, uncooked cakes can be refrigerated for up to 4 hours. Fry directly from the refrigerator, adding 1 minute per side to cooking time.
• •Cooked cakes keep refrigerated for 2 days. Reheat in a 400°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes until heated through and crisp.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 280g)