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Created by Chef Ally
A slow-cooked Basque tangle of sweet peppers, ripe tomatoes, and onions folded with soft-scrambled eggs, the kind of morning dish that rewards patience and demands good bread.
Pipérade comes from the Basque Country, that green and mountainous stretch where France meets Spain and the peppers grow thick on the vine. The dish itself is simple: peppers, tomatoes, onions, cooked slowly until they lose their structure and become something new. Then eggs, folded through at the last moment.
The secret is time. You cannot rush a pipérade. The peppers need thirty minutes of gentle heat to surrender their sweetness. The tomatoes need to break down into the mix. By the time you add the eggs, the vegetables have become a kind of jam, sweet and smoky and soft.
Buy your peppers from someone who grows them. At the height of summer, they should feel heavy and smell faintly sweet even through their skins. The tomatoes should give slightly when pressed and perfume your hands. Eggs from pastured hens, with their deep orange yolks, make all the difference in a dish this simple.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. This one says: I have time. I have good ingredients. I will let them become what they want to become.
Quantity
3 large
stemmed, seeded, and sliced into thin strips
Quantity
2 large
stemmed, seeded, and sliced into thin strips
Quantity
1 large
halved and thinly sliced
Quantity
4 (about 1 pound)
cored and roughly chopped
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1/4 cup, plus more for finishing
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
6
from pastured hens
Quantity
2 tablespoons
roughly chopped
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| red bell peppersstemmed, seeded, and sliced into thin strips | 3 large |
| green bell peppersstemmed, seeded, and sliced into thin strips | 2 large |
| yellow onionhalved and thinly sliced | 1 large |
| ripe tomatoescored and roughly chopped | 4 (about 1 pound) |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| extra-virgin olive oil | 1/4 cup, plus more for finishing |
| piment d'Espelette or sweet paprika | 1 teaspoon |
| fine sea salt | 1/2 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| large eggsfrom pastured hens | 6 |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleyroughly chopped | 2 tablespoons |
| crusty bread | for serving |
Set a wide, heavy skillet over medium-low heat and add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add the sliced onion with a pinch of salt. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns soft and translucent, about ten minutes. You are not looking for color here. You are coaxing out sweetness.
Add all the pepper strips to the pan. Season with another pinch of salt. Stir everything together and let the peppers cook gently for twenty minutes, stirring every few minutes. They will collapse and become silky. The kitchen will start to smell sweet and warm. This patience is the whole point of pipérade.
Add the chopped tomatoes, minced garlic, piment d'Espelette, and the remaining salt. Stir to combine. Let everything simmer together for another fifteen minutes, until the tomatoes have broken down completely and the mixture looks like a thick, jammy stew. The vegetables should melt into one another, distinct but unified.
Taste the pipérade. It should be sweet from the peppers, bright from the tomatoes, gently warm from the Espelette. Add more salt if needed. Grind in black pepper. This vegetable base is the foundation of everything that follows. Get it right before you touch the eggs.
Crack the eggs into a bowl and beat them lightly with a fork, just enough to combine yolks and whites. Reduce the heat to low. Pour the eggs over the warm pipérade and use a wooden spoon or spatula to fold them through gently, pulling from the edges toward the center. The eggs should form soft, creamy curds throughout the vegetables. This takes three to four minutes. Remove the pan from heat while the eggs still look slightly underdone. They will finish cooking in the residual warmth.
Scatter the parsley over the top. Drizzle with a thread of good olive oil. Serve immediately from the pan, with thick slices of crusty bread to soak up every bit. This is food meant for the middle of the table, for reaching in with your bread and eating without ceremony.
1 serving (about 320g)
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