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Chewy almond paste cookies rolled in pine nuts, crackled and golden from the oven. These Italian-American bakery classics deliver intense marzipan flavor with a satisfying chew that improves over two days.
Walk into any Italian bakery in Brooklyn, the Bronx, or South Philadelphia and you'll find these cookies arranged in neat rows behind the glass. Pignoli cookies arrived with Sicilian immigrants at the turn of the twentieth century, and they've been a fixture of Italian-American holiday tables ever since. The recipe couldn't be simpler: almond paste, sugar, egg whites, pine nuts. Four ingredients. No flour at all. The result is a cookie that tastes like concentrated almond essence, chewy in the center with a delicate crackled crust.
The quality of your almond paste determines everything here. This is not marzipan, which contains more sugar and less almond. True almond paste runs about fifty percent almonds by weight, and you can taste the difference immediately. Odense and Solo are reliable supermarket brands. If you have access to an Italian specialty grocer, their house-made paste will be superior still.
These cookies demand pine nuts on the exterior, pressed into the dough before baking so they toast golden in the oven's heat. Yes, pine nuts are expensive. There is no substitute that delivers the same buttery richness. Consider this: the recipe makes two dozen cookies from a single seven-ounce tube of almond paste. The investment per cookie is modest when you do the arithmetic.
I've watched home bakers overcomplicate these for years, adding flour or ground almonds or extra egg. Resist the urge. The original formula works because of what it leaves out. Trust the simplicity.
Quantity
7 ounces (200g)
Quantity
3/4 cup (150g)
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
2
at room temperature
Quantity
1 cup (140g)
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| almond paste (not marzipan) | 7 ounces (200g) |
| granulated sugar | 3/4 cup (150g) |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| large egg whitesat room temperature | 2 |
| pine nuts | 1 cup (140g) |
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of your oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. Pour the pine nuts into a shallow bowl or onto a small rimmed plate. They'll scatter less this way when you roll the cookies.
Cut the almond paste into rough one-inch chunks and drop them into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the sugar and salt. Beat on medium-low speed until the mixture resembles coarse, sandy crumbs, about 2 minutes. The almond paste will break down unevenly at first. This is normal. Scrape the bowl once halfway through.
With the mixer running on medium-low, add the egg whites in a slow stream. Increase speed to medium and beat until you have a smooth, thick paste, about 3 minutes. The dough should be glossy and hold its shape when you stop the paddle. It will be sticky. Very sticky. This is correct.
Wet your hands lightly with water to prevent sticking. Scoop a rounded tablespoon of dough and roll it between your palms into a ball roughly one inch in diameter. Drop the ball into the pine nuts and roll gently, pressing the nuts into the surface until the dough is completely coated. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough, spacing cookies two inches apart. Re-wet your hands as needed.
Using the bottom of a drinking glass or your palm, gently press each cookie to flatten it to about half an inch thick. Some pine nuts will shift. That's fine. The cookies should look like rough discs, not perfect circles. Rustic is the goal.
Bake for 14 to 17 minutes, rotating the pans from top to bottom and front to back at the halfway point. The cookies are done when the pine nuts turn golden brown and the tops show fine cracks. The centers will look slightly underdone. They'll firm as they cool. Pull them a minute early rather than a minute late.
Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for 10 minutes. They're fragile when warm and will break if you try to move them too soon. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely before storing. The texture improves dramatically after 24 hours as the moisture redistributes.
1 cookie (about 23g)
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