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Sweet, briny mussels from Whidbey Island's cold waters, steamed open in a fragrant coconut curry broth perfumed with lemongrass, ginger, and kaffir lime. Crusty bread for soaking is not optional.
Penn Cove sits on the eastern shore of Whidbey Island, where the waters run cold and clean and the mussels grow fat on plankton. The Mussel Farm there has been rope-cultivating these bivalves since 1975, long before sustainable aquaculture became fashionable. These are American mussels, raised in American waters, and they deserve the same respect we give any great ingredient.
Seattle's culinary identity was shaped by collision. Coast Salish peoples harvested shellfish from these waters for millennia. Scandinavian fishermen brought their smoking techniques and their reverence for the sea. And beginning in the 1970s, Vietnamese and Thai immigrants transformed the city's palate, introducing lemongrass and fish sauce and coconut milk to kitchens that had known only cream and butter. This dish lives at that intersection.
The technique is simple. Build a fragrant base of aromatics in a wide pan. Add coconut milk and let it simmer until the fat separates slightly at the edges. Then in go the mussels, lid on, heat high. Four minutes. Maybe five. They steam open in that perfumed broth, releasing their liquor into the curry, creating something greater than either component alone.
Serve this in wide bowls with plenty of broth. Put bread on the table. Not polite slices but torn chunks of something crusty. Your guests will fight over who gets to soak up the last of that broth. Let them.
Quantity
4 pounds
scrubbed and debearded
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
thinly sliced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
2-inch piece
julienned
Quantity
2 stalks
bottom 4 inches, bruised and sliced
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 can (13.5 oz)
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
4
torn
Quantity
2
sliced
Quantity
2
juiced
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
1/4 cup
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Penn Cove musselsscrubbed and debearded | 4 pounds |
| coconut oil | 2 tablespoons |
| shallotthinly sliced | 1 large |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| fresh gingerjulienned | 2-inch piece |
| lemongrassbottom 4 inches, bruised and sliced | 2 stalks |
| Thai red curry paste | 2 tablespoons |
| full-fat coconut milk | 1 can (13.5 oz) |
| seafood stock or clam juice | 1 cup |
| fish sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| palm sugar or light brown sugar | 1 tablespoon |
| kaffir lime leavestorn | 4 |
| Thai bird chilies (optional)sliced | 2 |
| limesjuiced | 2 |
| fresh cilantro leaves | 1/2 cup |
| fresh Thai basil leaves | 1/4 cup |
| crusty bread | for serving |
Dump your mussels into the sink and run cold water over them. Discard any with cracked shells. Tap any open mussels firmly on the counter. If they don't close within thirty seconds, they're dead. Throw them out. Pull off any beards (the fibrous threads protruding from the shell) with a firm tug toward the hinge end. Scrub away any barnacles or debris with a stiff brush. Healthy mussels smell like clean ocean. Anything ammonia-sharp goes in the trash.
Set a large Dutch oven or wide braising pan over medium heat. Add the coconut oil and let it melt and shimmer. Add the shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger, and lemongrass. Stir constantly now. You want these aromatics fragrant and golden, not brown. Two minutes, maybe less. Your kitchen should smell like a reason to keep cooking.
Push the aromatics to the edges of the pan and add the curry paste to the center. Let it sizzle in direct contact with the hot surface for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. The paste will darken slightly and become intensely fragrant. This blooming step transforms raw spice paste into something deeply complex. Stir everything together so the aromatics are coated in that brick-red paste.
Pour in the coconut milk and seafood stock. Add the fish sauce, palm sugar, kaffir lime leaves, and chilies. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer. Let this cook for 5 minutes, allowing the flavors to marry. The broth should taste balanced between salty, sweet, and aromatic. Adjust fish sauce for salt, sugar for sweetness. The lime juice comes later.
Turn the heat to high and let the broth come to an active simmer. Add all the mussels at once and immediately cover with a tight-fitting lid. Set a timer for 4 minutes. Resist the urge to peek. The steam trapped inside does the work. After 4 minutes, remove the lid. Most mussels should be wide open, their orange and cream flesh visible. If more than a few remain closed, cover and cook 1 minute longer. Discard any that refuse to open even after extended cooking.
Remove the pot from heat. Squeeze the lime juice directly over the mussels and toss gently with a large spoon to distribute. Taste the broth one final time. The lime should brighten everything without making it sour. Scatter the cilantro and Thai basil over the top. Ladle into wide, warmed bowls, making sure each serving gets plenty of broth. Serve immediately with torn chunks of crusty bread alongside.
1 serving (about 410g)
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