Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large clean tablecloth or cotton sheet
• •Rolling pin
• •Kitchen scissors
• •Candy thermometer (helpful but not essential)
• •Deep pan or pot for frying
• •Spider strainer or slotted spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the dough

   Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the center and add the warm water and oil. Mix with your hands until a shaggy dough forms, then turn out onto a clean surface. Knead for 8 to 10 minutes until the dough becomes smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky. It should feel alive under your hands, springing back when you press it. Wrap tightly in plastic and let rest at room temperature for at least 1 hour. The gluten needs time to relax before you can stretch it thin.

   Don't skip the resting time. Try to stretch dough that hasn't rested and it will fight you, snapping back like a rubber band. Patience here saves frustration later.
2. 2

   Prepare the egg custard

   While the dough rests, make the filling. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar dissolves, then stop stirring entirely. Let the syrup simmer until it reaches ponto de fio (thread stage), about 110°C (230°F). Test by dipping a spoon and letting syrup drip; it should form a thin thread that doesn't break. Remove from heat and let cool for 2 minutes.

3. 3

   Build the custard

   In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the lemon zest until smooth. Slowly pour the warm syrup into the yolks in a thin stream, whisking constantly. Return everything to the saucepan over low heat. Stir continuously with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom, until the custard thickens enough to coat the spoon and hold a line when you draw your finger through it. This takes 5 to 8 minutes. Don't rush. Don't stop stirring. The moment you see curdling, you've gone too far.

   Keep the heat low. The yolks will curdle if you cook too fast. If you see any small lumps forming, remove from heat immediately and whisk vigorously. A sieve can save a slightly curdled custard.
4. 4

   Cool the filling

   Transfer the custard to a shallow bowl and press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin. Let cool completely to room temperature, then refrigerate until thick and scoopable, at least 30 minutes. The filling should hold its shape when spooned.

5. 5

   Stretch the dough

   Clear a large work surface and cover it with a clean cotton cloth or tablecloth. Dust generously with flour. Divide the rested dough into 4 pieces. Working with one piece at a time (keep others covered), roll it as thin as possible with a rolling pin. Then use the backs of your hands, knuckles facing down, to stretch the dough from underneath. Work from the center outward, walking around the table, letting gravity help you. The dough should become translucent, thin enough to read through. Trim any thick edges with scissors.

   Remove rings and watches. Work slowly. Small tears can be pinched closed. Large tears mean start with a new piece. Dona Emília told me she ruined fifty sheets before her first success. This is normal. This is learning.
6. 6

   Cut and fill

   Let the stretched dough dry for 2 to 3 minutes until it's no longer sticky but still pliable. Using scissors, cut into rectangles roughly 10cm by 15cm. Place a tablespoon of the cold custard along one short end of each rectangle, leaving space at the edges. Fold the sides in slightly to seal, then roll up snugly but not tightly. The pastry should be cigar-shaped, about 8cm long. Press the edges gently to seal. Repeat with remaining dough and filling.

7. 7

   Fry the pastries

   Heat the oil in a deep pan or pot to 170°C (340°F). Test with a small piece of dough; it should sizzle immediately and turn golden within seconds. Fry the pastries in batches, 3 or 4 at a time, turning once, until golden and crisp all over. This takes only 1 to 2 minutes per batch. Watch them constantly. The difference between perfect and burnt is seconds. Drain on paper towels.

   Some families bake these instead of frying, at 200°C (400°F) for 12 to 15 minutes. The texture is different, lighter, but still delicious. The nuns fried them. I fry them. But I won't tell anyone if you bake.
8. 8

   Dust and serve

   Let the pastries cool for 5 minutes. Dust generously with powdered sugar, then add a light veil of cinnamon. Serve at room temperature. They're best the day they're made, when the layers are crisp and the custard is still silky. By tomorrow, they'll still be good. But today, they're magic.

Chef Tips

• •The dough can be made up to a day ahead and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before stretching.
• •Use a large tablecloth you don't mind getting floury. The bigger your surface, the easier the stretching. The nuns used long wooden tables in the convent kitchens.
• •The filling must be completely cold before rolling. Warm custard will seep through the thin dough and cause tearing.
• •Traditional pastéis de Tentúgal have multiple thin layers of dough wrapped around the filling. For your first attempt, a single layer is fine. As you gain confidence, try wrapping each pastel in two or three overlapping sheets for even more crispness.
• •These don't keep well. Make only what you'll eat that day. Send guests home with extras rather than storing them.

Advance Preparation

• •The dough can rest for up to 24 hours refrigerated. Return to room temperature before stretching.
• •The custard filling can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated. It actually firms up better with time.
• •Assembled pastries should be fried immediately. Do not store uncooked.
• •Fried pastries are best within 4 hours. They can be held at room temperature, uncovered, but will gradually lose crispness.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 pastry (about 50g)