Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot (6-8 quart)
• •Fine-mesh sieve
• •Cheesecloth for straining
• •Stiff brush for scrubbing clams

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean and inspect clams

   Place clams in a colander and rinse under cold running water, scrubbing each shell with a stiff brush to remove sand and grit. Discard any clams with cracked shells or those that remain open when tapped sharply against the counter. Live clams close when disturbed. Dead clams stay open and will ruin your chowder with off flavors.

   If clams are sandy, soak them in cold salted water (1/4 cup salt per gallon) for 20 minutes. They'll purge grit naturally. Never soak in fresh water, which kills them.
2. 2

   Steam the clams

   Pour the white wine into a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the clams in a single layer (work in batches if necessary), cover tightly, and steam for 5 to 8 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally. Transfer clams to a bowl as they open. Discard any that refuse to open after 10 minutes. Strain the precious clam liquor through a fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth to remove any sand. You should have about 2 cups of liquid. Set this aside like the treasure it is.

   The clam liquor contains more flavor than any stock you could buy. Never skip the straining step or you'll serve gritty chowder.
3. 3

   Remove clam meat

   Once cool enough to handle, remove the clams from their shells. Chop larger clams roughly into bite-sized pieces; smaller ones can stay whole. Place clam meat in a bowl, cover, and refrigerate. The clams go back in at the very end. Overcooking turns them to rubber.

4. 4

   Render the bacon

   Wipe out the pot and set it over medium heat. Add the bacon pieces and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the fat renders and the bacon turns golden and slightly crisp, about 8 to 10 minutes. Listen for the gentle sizzle, not aggressive popping. Low and slow extracts maximum fat without burning. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the rendered fat in the pot.

5. 5

   Build the aromatic base

   Add butter to the bacon fat and let it melt. Add the diced onions and celery, stirring to coat. Cook over medium heat until the vegetables soften and turn translucent, about 6 to 8 minutes. The onions should look glassy and smell sweet, with no browning. This is a white chowder. Color is not your friend here.

   White pepper appears in traditional New England recipes because black specks in cream-colored soup offended Yankee sensibilities. Use black pepper if you prefer. The chowder police won't find you.
6. 6

   Add potatoes and liquids

   Add the cubed potatoes to the pot and stir to combine with the aromatics. Pour in the reserved clam liquor and the bottled clam juice. Nestle in the bay leaves and the thyme bundle. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to maintain small bubbles breaking the surface. Cook uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are tender and some have begun to break apart at the edges. This natural breakdown thickens your chowder without flour.

7. 7

   Add dairy and finish

   Pour in the milk and cream. Stir gently and heat until the chowder is steaming hot but not boiling. Boiling cream breaks and curdles. You want tiny bubbles at the edge, nothing more. Season with white pepper. Taste for salt, remembering that the clam liquor and bacon contributed salinity. The chowder should taste of the sea, not the salt shaker.

   For a lighter summer version, reverse the dairy ratio: 2 cups cream, 1 cup milk. For richer winter chowder, use all cream.
8. 8

   Add clams and serve

   Remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme bundle. Add the reserved clam meat and bacon to the pot. Stir gently and let heat through for 2 to 3 minutes, just until the clams are warmed. Taste once more and adjust seasoning. Ladle into warmed bowls, scatter fresh chives over each serving, and pass oyster crackers at the table. The chowder should be creamy but pourable, not thick like gravy. This is the honest chowder of New England, worthy of its history.

Chef Tips

• •Buy clams the day you plan to cook. Store them in an open container in the refrigerator covered with a damp towel, never submerged in water or sealed in plastic. They need to breathe.
• •Littlenecks are the traditional choice, but cherrystones work if you chop them smaller. Quahogs are too tough for chowder unless you grind them. Never use canned clams in summer when fresh are available.
• •The chowder improves overnight as flavors marry. Refrigerate and reheat gently the next day. Add the clams fresh if making ahead, or they'll toughen during reheating.
• •Serve with a chilled Muscadet or dry Riesling. The wine's minerality complements the briny clams. Beer works too: a crisp pilsner or wheat ale.
• •Double this recipe for a potluck. It holds well in a slow cooker on the warm setting for up to two hours. Stir occasionally and watch that it doesn't simmer.

Advance Preparation

• •Clams can be scrubbed and refrigerated in an open container up to 24 hours ahead.
• •The chowder base (without clams) can be made one day ahead. Refrigerate, then reheat gently before adding warmed clam meat.
• •Complete chowder refrigerates well for 2 days. Reheat slowly over low heat, stirring often, to prevent the cream from breaking.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 525g)