Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large stockpot (at least 8 quarts)
• •Lobster crackers or heavy knife
• •Kitchen shears
• •Small saucepan for clarifying butter
• •Cast iron skillet or griddle for toasting buns

Instructions

1. 1

   Cook the lobsters

   Fill your largest pot with water and salt it aggressively. You want it to taste like the sea. Bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Grasp each lobster firmly behind the claws and plunge headfirst into the water. Cover and cook for 8 minutes for 1-1/4 pound lobsters, 10 minutes for 1-1/2 pounders. The shells will turn brilliant red. Remove with tongs and transfer to a rimmed baking sheet to cool until you can handle them, about 10 minutes.

   If using pre-cooked lobster meat, skip to step 3. But cooking your own delivers superior sweetness and texture.
2. 2

   Extract the meat

   Twist off the claws and knuckles where they meet the body. Crack the claws with the back of a heavy knife or lobster crackers, then pull the meat out in whole pieces. Use kitchen shears to cut along the knuckle shells and push the meat through. For the tails, bend backward until you hear a crack, then pull the meat free in one piece. Remove the dark vein running along the tail. Cut the meat into generous one-inch chunks. You should have about one pound total.

   Save the shells and bodies in the freezer. They make extraordinary stock for bisque or risotto.
3. 3

   Clarify the butter

   Melt 10 tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Let it bubble gently for 3 to 4 minutes. The milk solids will sink to the bottom and the foam will rise to the top. Skim the foam with a spoon, then carefully pour the clear golden butter into a clean bowl, leaving the milky sediment behind. This is your drawn butter. It won't burn or turn bitter when you warm the lobster.

   Don't rush clarifying. Low, gentle heat separates the components cleanly. High heat browns the solids before they settle.
4. 4

   Griddle the buns

   Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet or griddle over medium heat. Open the buns slightly and press them flat-side down into the butter. Toast until golden brown and lightly crispy, 2 to 3 minutes per side. The butter should sizzle gently, not sputter. Work in batches if needed. Transfer to plates and keep warm.

5. 5

   Warm the lobster

   Return the clarified butter to the saucepan over low heat. Add the lemon juice, salt, and cayenne. Gently fold in the lobster meat, turning the pieces to coat completely. Warm just until heated through, 2 to 3 minutes. The lobster should feel warm to the touch, not hot. Overcooking turns it rubbery. You want tender, succulent, barely warmed meat glistening with golden butter.

6. 6

   Assemble and serve

   Divide the warm buttered lobster among the toasted buns, mounding it generously. Drizzle any remaining butter from the pan over the top. Scatter fresh chives across if using. Serve immediately with lemon wedges alongside. These wait for no one. Eat while the butter still glistens and the buns still crunch.

Chef Tips

• •Buy your lobsters from a reputable fishmonger who keeps them in proper salt-water tanks. A sluggish lobster has been in the tank too long. You want active, feisty creatures that flap their tails when lifted.
• •Hard-shell lobsters yield more meat and have firmer texture than soft-shells. Look for them from late fall through spring. Summer soft-shells are sweeter but you'll need more to get the same yield.
• •If split-top buns are unavailable in your region, buy quality brioche hot dog buns, slice off the tops, and toast the cut surfaces. The result won't be identical, but it will be delicious.
• •Serve with cold, crisp Muscadet or a dry Riesling from the Finger Lakes. The minerality complements the lobster's sweetness without competing.
• •This is not a dish that benefits from additions. I've seen restaurants add celery, tarragon, even bacon. Resist the urge. When lobster is this good, anything you add subtracts.

Advance Preparation

• •Lobsters can be cooked and meat extracted up to 24 hours ahead. Store the meat covered in the refrigerator, then bring to room temperature for 15 minutes before warming in butter.
• •Butter can be clarified several days ahead and refrigerated. Rewarm gently before adding lobster.
• •Do not toast the buns until just before serving. They lose their crunch within minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 235g)