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Created by Chef Ally
A celebration of autumn mushrooms wrapped in shatteringly crisp pastry, rich with herbs and walnuts, sliced at the table to reveal a filling so savory and satisfying that no one asks where the meat is.
Start at the market. You are looking for mushrooms that feel heavy for their size, with caps that are dry and firm, gills that are tight and pale. Smell them. Good mushrooms smell of the forest floor, of damp earth and fallen leaves. If they smell of nothing, they will taste of nothing.
This Wellington began as an answer to a question I have heard for decades: what do we serve the vegetarians at the holiday table? But it has become something more. When I make this now, everyone reaches for it. The filling is deeply savory, almost meaty, built from mushrooms cooked until their edges turn lacquered and dark. Walnuts add richness. Spinach brings color. Fresh thyme and rosemary perfume everything.
The pastry is the easy part. You are not making puff pastry from scratch, and you do not need to. Buy the best vegan puff pastry you can find, one made with real butter substitute and no strange additives. Your work is in the filling, in coaxing depth and complexity from humble ingredients. The pastry is just the beautiful package.
Every meal is a meaningful choice. This one says that abundance does not require excess, that celebration can honor the season, and that a centerpiece can be built entirely from plants. Slice it at the table. Watch people lean in.
Quantity
2 pounds
cremini, shiitake, oyster, portobello
Quantity
4 tablespoons
divided
Quantity
3
finely diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
2 teaspoons
finely chopped
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
1/2 cup
finely chopped
Quantity
1 sheet (about 14 ounces)
thawed
Quantity
2 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
to taste
freshly cracked
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| mixed mushroomscremini, shiitake, oyster, portobello | 2 pounds |
| olive oildivided | 4 tablespoons |
| large shallotsfinely diced | 3 |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| fresh thyme leaves | 1 tablespoon |
| fresh rosemaryfinely chopped | 2 teaspoons |
| dry white wine | 1/2 cup |
| tamari or soy sauce | 2 tablespoons |
| Dijon mustard | 1 tablespoon |
| baby spinach | 4 cups |
| walnutsfinely chopped | 1/2 cup |
| vegan puff pastrythawed | 1 sheet (about 14 ounces) |
| unsweetened plant milk | 2 tablespoons |
| flaky sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly cracked | to taste |
Brush off any dirt from your mushrooms with a damp cloth. Do not soak them. Mushrooms are porous and will drink up water, which steams out during cooking and prevents browning. Remove tough stems from shiitakes, trim the ends from creminis, and scrape the gills from portobellos if you prefer a cleaner look. Chop everything into rough, uneven pieces about the size of your thumbnail.
Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add two tablespoons of olive oil. When the oil shimmers, add half the mushrooms in a single layer. Leave them alone. Do not stir. After three to four minutes, the bottoms will be deeply golden and the edges will look lacquered. Stir once, then cook another two minutes until browned throughout. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a bowl. Repeat with remaining oil and mushrooms.
Lower the heat to medium. Add a splash more oil if needed. Cook the shallots until softened and translucent, about four minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, and rosemary. Stir constantly for one minute until fragrant. The kitchen should smell like someone who knows what they are doing.
Pour in the white wine. It will sizzle and steam. Scrape up any browned bits clinging to the pan because that is where the flavor lives. Let the wine reduce until nearly evaporated, about two minutes. Add the tamari and mustard, stirring to combine.
Return all the mushrooms to the pan along with any collected juices. Add the spinach in handfuls, letting each batch wilt before adding more. The leaves will cook down to almost nothing. Stir in the walnuts. Cook until any remaining liquid evaporates and the mixture is thick and cohesive, about five minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. The filling should be deeply savory. Transfer to a baking sheet, spread thin, and cool completely.
On a lightly floured surface, roll the puff pastry into a rectangle about 12 by 14 inches. It should be thin enough to see the shadow of your hand through it but sturdy enough to handle. Mound the cooled mushroom filling in a log shape down the center, leaving three inches of pastry bare on each side and two inches at both ends.
Brush the exposed pastry edges with plant milk. Fold the short ends up and over the filling, then roll one long side over to meet the other, pressing firmly to seal. You want a snug package with no gaps where steam can escape. Place seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Refrigerate for at least thirty minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400F. Remove the Wellington from the refrigerator. Brush the entire surface with plant milk. Using a sharp knife, score the top with diagonal lines about half an inch apart, cutting just through the surface layer. Sprinkle with flaky salt.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes until the pastry is deeply golden and puffed, with visible layers along the sides. The scoring lines should have opened into pronounced ridges. If the top browns too quickly, tent loosely with foil for the final ten minutes.
Let the Wellington rest on the baking sheet for ten minutes before slicing. This allows the filling to set and makes cleaner cuts. Use a sharp serrated knife. Slice into rounds about one and a half inches thick, revealing the dark earthy filling encased in golden flaky pastry. Serve on warmed plates.
1 serving (about 200g)
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