Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large heavy skillet (cast iron or stainless steel)
• •Instant-read thermometer or small cube of bread for testing oil temperature
• •Slotted spatula or spider
• •Paper towels for draining

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the bread

   Trim the crusts from the bread slices. This is not optional. The crusts become tough when fried while the soft interior turns golden and crisp. If your bread is fresh, leave the slices uncovered for an hour. Slightly stale bread absorbs the egg better without becoming sodden.

2. 2

   Assemble the sandwiches

   Pat the mozzarella slices dry with paper towels. Wet cheese will cause spattering in the oil. Divide the mozzarella evenly among four bread slices, leaving a half-inch border around the edges. If using anchovy, lay a piece or two over the cheese. Cover with the remaining bread slices and press the edges firmly to seal. The seal is essential. Without it, the cheese escapes during frying.

   The anchovy is traditional and worth including. It does not make the sandwich taste of fish. It adds depth and salt, enhancing the mozzarella rather than competing with it. Those who claim to dislike anchovy often cannot detect it here.
3. 3

   Prepare the batter

   Spread the flour on a plate. In a shallow bowl wide enough to hold a sandwich, beat the eggs with the milk and a pinch of salt until thoroughly combined. The mixture should be smooth and uniform.

4. 4

   Coat the sandwiches

   Dredge each sandwich lightly in flour on both sides, shaking off excess. Then dip into the egg mixture, letting it soak for 20 to 30 seconds per side. The bread should absorb the egg but not become waterlogged. Lift and let excess drip back into the bowl.

5. 5

   Heat the oil

   Pour oil into a large skillet to a depth of half an inch. Heat over medium until the oil reaches 350 degrees, or until a small piece of bread dropped in sizzles immediately and turns golden in about 30 seconds. The temperature matters. Too cool and the sandwiches absorb oil. Too hot and the outside burns before the cheese melts.

6. 6

   Fry until golden

   Carefully lower the sandwiches into the oil. Do not crowd the pan. Two at a time is usually the limit. Fry until the bottom is deep golden, about 2 minutes. Turn once with a spatula and fry the second side until equally golden. The cheese inside should be completely molten. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels.

   Do not press down on the sandwiches while frying. This squeezes out the melted cheese. Let them be.
7. 7

   Serve immediately

   Season lightly with salt while still hot. Cut in half diagonally if you wish to show the stretchy cheese inside. Serve at once. There is no reheating this dish. It exists in its perfect state for approximately four minutes. After that, the bread softens, the cheese solidifies, and the magic is gone.

Chef Tips

• •Use fior di latte, the cow's milk mozzarella, not mozzarella di bufala. Buffalo mozzarella contains too much moisture and will make your sandwiches soggy and cause dangerous spattering in the oil.
• •The seal matters more than you think. Press those edges firmly. If the mozzarella escapes into the oil, you have a mess and a disappointment.
• •Do not be tempted to add herbs, garlic, or other flourishes. This is a three-ingredient dish for good reason. What you keep out is as significant as what you put in.
• •Anchovy skeptics should try it once. The fillets melt into the cheese and create a savory depth that enhances everything. You will not taste fish.

Advance Preparation

• •The sandwiches can be assembled and sealed up to 2 hours ahead. Refrigerate them on a plate, covered. Bring to room temperature before coating and frying.
• •Do not coat with flour and egg until the moment before frying. The bread will become soggy.
• •This dish cannot be reheated successfully. Plan your timing so guests are seated when the frying begins.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 140g)