Italian cooks do not marinate meat to hide its quality. They marinate to draw out what is already there, to create harmony between the roast and the sauce that will accompany it. The wine, the herbs, the aromatics: all of these will reappear later, strained and reduced into the braising liquid or the pan juices. The marinade is the first chapter of a longer story.

This is the marinata I learned in Emilia-Romagna, though every region has its own variation. The Piedmontese might add Barolo and more garlic. The Tuscans prefer their own Chianti and perhaps some sage. What remains constant is the principle: good wine, restrained aromatics, and patience.

The juniper berries are traditional for game and robust cuts of beef. They bring a resinous, almost piney fragrance that marries beautifully with venison, wild boar, or a well-aged piece of beef. Omit them for pork or lamb if you prefer, though I find they do no harm.