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Created by Chef Ally
A velvet bowl of leeks and potatoes simmered until they surrender into one another, scented with garden thyme and finished with nothing more than good butter and a pinch of salt.
Start with the leeks. They should feel heavy and firm, with tight white bases and pale green leaves that have not yellowed or dried. This is late autumn and winter food, the kind of dish that belongs to cold evenings and the smell of something warm on the stove.
In France, this soup appears on tables from Brittany to Burgundy, and every cook makes it slightly differently. Some blend it smooth. Others leave it rough. Some add cream. I prefer almost none, because the leeks and potatoes, when cooked properly, create their own silky texture. The starch from the potatoes thickens the broth. The leeks melt into sweetness. You do not need to mask what is already perfect.
The thyme matters. Fresh thyme from a garden or a good market will perfume the whole pot in a way dried herbs cannot. Strip the leaves and add them at the end, so they keep their aliveness. This is not about precision. It is about paying attention to what the vegetables are doing and getting out of their way.
Quantity
2 pounds (about 4 large)
white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
Quantity
6 cups
Quantity
1 teaspoon, plus more to taste
Quantity
1 tablespoon
stripped from stems
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| leekswhite and light green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced | 2 pounds (about 4 large) |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons |
| Yukon Gold potatoespeeled and cut into 1-inch pieces | 1 1/2 pounds |
| homemade chicken or vegetable stock | 6 cups |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon, plus more to taste |
| fresh thyme leavesstripped from stems | 1 tablespoon |
| white pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
| good olive oil or crème fraîche (optional) | for finishing |
Trim the root ends and dark green tops from the leeks, keeping the white and pale green portions. Halve each leek lengthwise and hold under cold running water, fanning the layers to flush out any grit hiding inside. Leeks grow in sandy soil and trap dirt between their layers. Shake dry and slice into half-moons about half an inch thick.
Melt the butter in a large heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the sliced leeks and stir to coat. Reduce heat to low, cover the pot, and let the leeks sweat for fifteen minutes, stirring once or twice. They should soften and turn translucent without taking on any color. This slow cooking draws out their natural sweetness.
Add the potato pieces to the pot, stirring them into the softened leeks. Pour in the stock. It should cover the vegetables by about an inch. Add the salt. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce to low. You want lazy bubbles, not a rolling boil.
Cook uncovered for twenty-five to thirty minutes, until the potatoes are completely tender and beginning to fall apart at the edges. A fork should meet no resistance. The soup will thicken as the potato starch releases into the broth.
For a silky texture, blend the soup with an immersion blender directly in the pot until smooth. For a more rustic version, mash roughly with a potato masher, leaving some pieces intact. I prefer something in between: mostly smooth with the occasional bite of potato or leek.
Return the soup to low heat if needed. Stir in the fresh thyme leaves and a few grinds of white pepper. Taste and adjust salt. The soup should taste deeply of leeks first, with the thyme as a quiet background note. Ladle into warm bowls and finish each serving with a drizzle of good olive oil or a small spoonful of crème fraîche.
1 serving (about 400g)
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