Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Grill or 12-inch cast iron skillet
• •Grill brush or paper towels for oiling
• •Instant-read thermometer (optional)

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the yogurt sauce

   Stir together the yogurt, lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and the grated cucumber if using. Taste it. The sauce should be bright and cool, a counterpoint to the richness of the lamb. Set aside while you prepare everything else.

   If you have time, salt the grated cucumber and let it drain for ten minutes. Squeeze out the water before adding. This keeps the sauce from becoming thin.
2. 2

   Season the lamb

   Place the ground lamb in a bowl. Add the salt, pepper, and minced garlic. Mix gently with your hands until just combined. The lamb should hold together but still feel loose. Overworking ground meat makes it dense and tight. You want these burgers to stay tender.

3. 3

   Form the patties

   Divide the meat into four equal portions. Shape each into a patty about three-quarters of an inch thick, slightly wider than your buns because they will shrink as they cook. Press a shallow dimple into the center of each patty with your thumb. This keeps them flat rather than puffing into meatballs on the grill.

   Cold hands help. If the lamb feels sticky, wet your palms with cold water.
4. 4

   Heat the grill

   Heat your grill to medium-high, or set a cast iron skillet over high heat until it just begins to smoke. Brush the grates or pan lightly with olive oil. Lamb has enough fat to cook beautifully, but a little oil prevents sticking.

5. 5

   Grill the patties

   Place the patties on the hot grill. Let them cook undisturbed for four minutes. You want a proper crust to form before you flip. Turn once and cook another three to four minutes for medium, when the center still gives slightly under gentle pressure. Lamb dries out quickly when overcooked. Pull them a touch early. They will carry over.

   Resist the urge to press down on the patties. You are squeezing out the juices that keep the burger moist.
6. 6

   Toast the buns

   While the patties rest for a minute or two, brush the cut sides of the buns with a little olive oil and place them cut-side down on the grill. Toast until golden, about thirty seconds. Good bread matters enormously. A soft, fresh bun with a slight char makes everything better.

7. 7

   Assemble the burgers

   Spread a generous spoonful of yogurt sauce on the bottom bun. Set the lamb patty on top. Scatter crumbled feta over the hot meat so it softens slightly. Add a tangle of thin-sliced red onion and a handful of fresh mint leaves. Crown with the top bun. Serve immediately, while everything is still alive with warmth.

Chef Tips

• •Ask your butcher to grind lamb shoulder for you, or grind it yourself from a bone-in shoulder. Pre-ground lamb from the grocery case often sits too long and loses its aliveness.
• •If you cannot find good lamb, do not make this burger. Wait until you can. A mediocre version of a simple dish is worse than making something else entirely.
• •Feta varies wildly. Greek feta made from sheep's milk has a tangy, creamy quality. French feta is milder. Bulgarian feta crumbles beautifully. Taste before you buy.
• •Fresh mint is not negotiable. Dried mint is a different ingredient altogether. If the mint at your market looks tired, check a Middle Eastern grocery or grow your own. It takes over a pot with enthusiasm.
• •In cooler months when grilling feels less appealing, a hot cast iron skillet produces an excellent crust. Open a window.

Advance Preparation

• •The yogurt sauce can be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated. The flavor deepens as it sits.
• •Patties can be formed and refrigerated up to six hours before cooking. Bring them to room temperature for twenty minutes before grilling.
• •Slice the onion and pick the mint leaves an hour ahead, keeping the onion in cold water and the mint wrapped in a damp towel.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 285g)