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Created by Chef Elsa
Dark, nutty rye-wheat rolls with pointed ends and a crunchy seed crust, the roll Austrians reach for when a Semmel is too polite for the occasion.
Every Austrian bakery has a basket of Semmeln and a basket of Kornspitz, and the one you choose tells people something about you. The Semmel is light, white, all about the crust. The Kornspitz is its darker, earthier cousin: a rye-wheat roll shaped like a spindle with pointed ends, coated in sunflower seeds and flaxseeds and sesame, with a crumb that actually tastes like grain. When I was a child on those trips to Austria with Gretel and my grandmother Eva, I'd stand at the bakery counter in Salzburg and point at the Kornspitz every single time. Gretel would laugh and say it figured, because I never did anything the easy way.
Kornspitz is the roll you want for Jause, the Austrian afternoon meal that's somewhere between a snack and a light supper. You split it open, lay good butter on one half, pile Schinken or Bergkäse on the other, and eat it with a few cornichons and maybe some radishes. The seeds on the crust crunch against the soft, slightly sour crumb inside. It's a roll with personality. A Semmel politely holds your sandwich together. A Kornspitz has opinions about what goes on it.
At my restaurant in Salzburg, we bake these every morning. The kitchen smells like toasted seeds and rye by seven o'clock. The dough is simple: rye flour, wheat flour, a touch of malt syrup for color and depth, good butter, and a seed mixture pressed into the surface before baking. The shape takes a little practice, those pointed ends aren't decorative, they crisp up in the oven and give you something to tear off with your fingers. Once you've made a batch, you won't go back to buying them.
The name Kornspitz, meaning 'grain point,' was trademarked by the Austrian baking company backaldrin in 1985, but the style of seeded rye-wheat roll with tapered ends is far older, rooted in the mixed-grain baking traditions of Austria's Alpine provinces. In 2012, the EU General Court ruled that Kornspitz had become a generic term in Austria, stripping the trademark protection. It was a bread-naming dispute that would have made the Viennese proud, given their fondness for food-related legal battles.
Quantity
300g
Quantity
200g
Quantity
10g
Quantity
7g
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
25g
softened
Quantity
300ml
around 38°C
Quantity
30g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
20g
Quantity
10g
Quantity
for brushing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| strong bread flour (Austrian Type 700 if available) | 300g |
| dark rye flour (Austrian Type 960 or 1150) | 200g |
| fine salt | 10g |
| dried yeast | 7g |
| barley malt syrup (or dark honey) | 1 tablespoon |
| unsalted buttersoftened | 25g |
| lukewarm wateraround 38°C | 300ml |
| sunflower seeds | 30g |
| flaxseeds (linseeds) | 20g |
| sesame seeds | 20g |
| pumpkin seeds (optional) | 10g |
| water | for brushing |
Combine the sunflower seeds, flaxseeds, sesame seeds, and pumpkin seeds if using in a shallow bowl or plate. Set this aside. You'll press the shaped rolls into this mixture later, so spread it out wide enough to roll a piece of dough across.
In a large bowl, combine the bread flour, rye flour, and salt. Make a well in the center. If you're using fresh yeast, crumble it into the lukewarm water and stir until dissolved. For dried yeast, just sprinkle it in and let it sit for a minute. Pour the yeast water into the well along with the malt syrup and softened butter. Mix everything together with a wooden spoon until a shaggy dough forms, then turn it out onto a clean work surface.
Knead for eight to ten minutes. This dough will feel different from a pure wheat dough because the rye flour absorbs water more slowly and doesn't develop gluten the same way. It will be slightly sticky and denser. That's right. Don't add extra flour unless it's truly unworkable. You want a dough that's smooth and just slightly tacky to the touch. If it sticks to your hands, wet them instead of flouring them. The rye needs that moisture to develop the crumb you're after.
Shape the dough into a ball, place it back in the bowl, and cover with a clean tea towel or cling film. Leave it in a warm spot for one hour, or until it has grown by about half its size. Rye doughs don't double the way white doughs do. Don't wait for that. If it looks noticeably puffed and feels airy when you press it gently, it's ready.
Turn the risen dough onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into eight equal pieces. A kitchen scale helps here. Each piece should weigh about 95 to 100 grams. Take one piece and roll it under your palms into a cylinder about 15 centimeters long. Now apply more pressure at the ends than in the center, tapering each end to a point. The finished shape should look like a spindle or a fat cigar with sharpened tips. Those pointed ends are not decorative. They bake up crisp and crunchy while the thicker center stays soft. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Brush each shaped roll lightly with water on all sides. You want the surface damp, not dripping. Roll each one through the seed mixture, pressing gently so the seeds stick to the entire surface. The water acts as glue. Place the coated rolls on a baking tray lined with parchment, leaving a few centimeters between them. They'll spread slightly as they proof.
Cover the tray loosely with a tea towel and let the rolls proof for thirty to forty minutes. They should look visibly puffed but still hold their pointed shape. While they proof, preheat your oven to 220°C (430°F) with a baking tray or cast iron pan on the bottom rack. You'll need that for creating steam.
Using a sharp knife or a razor blade, make one long diagonal slash down the center of each roll, about half a centimeter deep. This controls where the roll opens as it bakes and gives Kornspitz their signature split down the middle. Slide the tray into the oven and immediately pour a cup of water onto the hot tray below. Close the door fast. The burst of steam is what gives the crust its initial stretch and shine. Without it, the rolls set too early and you'll get a thick, dull crust instead of a thin, crackling one.
Bake for 22 to 25 minutes total, until the rolls are deep golden brown and the seeds are toasted and fragrant. Pick one up and knock on the bottom. It should sound hollow, like tapping on a small drum. If it sounds dense and flat, give them another three minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let them cool for at least fifteen minutes before eating. The crumb is still setting during this time. Cut into one too early and it will be gummy in the center. I know it's hard to wait when the kitchen smells like this. Wait anyway.
1 serving (about 105g)
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