White asparagus arrives at the Copenhagen markets in late April. You see them first in a single crate at one stall, then suddenly everywhere, thick pale spears laid out on damp cloth. The stallholders handle them carefully. So should you. This is the week kalvefrikasse comes back to the table.

Kalvefrikasse med asparges is Danish spring in a pot. Veal simmered gently in its own pale stock, then lifted into a cream sauce the color of soft butter, with white asparagus, green asparagus, fresh peas, and enough dill to remind you what month it is. Nothing gets browned. Nothing is loud. The whole point is restraint: the meat surrenders under a fork, the sauce is glossy and almost ivory, and the asparagus keeps just enough bite to matter.

I want you to pay attention to two moments. The first is the simmer. Keep it gentle, barely a tremor on the surface. A hard boil toughens the veal and clouds the stock, and you need both the meat and the liquid to stay soft and clean. The second is the finish: egg yolks whisked with cream, tempered with a ladle of the hot sauce, then stirred back in off the heat. If the pot boils after that point, the yolks split and you'll have scrambled egg in a spring stew. Keep it below a simmer and you'll be fine. You'll know when it's right because the sauce will coat the back of a wooden spoon and smell of butter, lemon, and dill all at once.

Serve it with new Danish potatoes the moment they arrive at the market, skins so thin they rub off under your thumb. This is the dish that tells you winter is finally over. The season decides, and the season is now.