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Created by Chef Graziella
The golden, crackling fried bread of Emilia-Romagna, puffed hollow and light as air, served alongside paper-thin slices of prosciutto that melt against the warm dough.
In my home region of Emilia-Romagna, gnocco fritto is not a recipe. It is a birthright. Every family makes it, every osteria serves it, and the arguments about proper technique have been going on for centuries. In Modena they call it gnocco fritto. In Bologna they say crescentine. In Parma it becomes torta fritta. The name changes every thirty kilometers, but the principle remains: a simple dough, fried until it puffs into golden pillows, eaten immediately with the finest cured meats.
The dough contains lard. This is not negotiable. Lard in the dough creates the distinctive tenderness. Lard for frying creates the proper crispness. You may use vegetable oil for frying if you must, but the dough itself requires strutto. A good butcher will have it. Ask.
What you keep out matters here as much as anywhere. No herbs. No cheese in the dough. No garlic, certainly. The gnocco must be neutral, slightly salty, a vehicle for the prosciutto. The marriage of warm, crackling bread and cool, silky ham is the entire point. Do not complicate it.
Gnocco fritto emerged from the farmhouses of the Po Valley, where families rendered their own lard after the annual pig slaughter. The dish appeared on feast days and Sunday tables, made by women who could judge frying temperature by watching how the dough behaved in the fat. Each province claimed its own name and slight variations, but the tradition unified the entire region.
Quantity
500g (about 4 cups)
Quantity
75g (5 tablespoons)
softened, plus more for frying
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
200ml (about 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons)
at room temperature
Quantity
about 4 cups
for frying
Quantity
8 ounces
sliced paper-thin
Quantity
4 ounces
sliced thin
Quantity
4 ounces
sliced thin
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 500g (about 4 cups) |
| lardsoftened, plus more for frying | 75g (5 tablespoons) |
| fine sea salt | 1 teaspoon |
| baking powder | 1 teaspoon |
| whole milkat room temperature | 200ml (about 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons) |
| lard or vegetable oilfor frying | about 4 cups |
| Prosciutto di Parmasliced paper-thin | 8 ounces |
| mortadella (optional)sliced thin | 4 ounces |
| culatello or coppa (optional)sliced thin | 4 ounces |
| flaky sea salt | for finishing |
Mound the flour on a large wooden board or clean work surface. Make a well in the center. Add the softened lard, salt, and baking powder to the well. Begin incorporating the flour into the center, working with your fingertips. Add the milk gradually, mixing as you go. When the dough becomes shaggy and holds together, begin kneading.
Knead the dough vigorously for 8 to 10 minutes. Push it away from you with the heel of your hand, fold it back, rotate a quarter turn, and repeat. The dough should become smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky but not sticky. If it clings to your hands, add flour sparingly. If it cracks and resists, your lard was too cold or you added too little milk. Adjust accordingly.
Shape the dough into a ball, wrap it tightly in plastic, and let it rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. The gluten must relax or rolling will be a battle. You can rest it up to 2 hours. Do not refrigerate; the lard will harden and the dough will become difficult to work.
Divide the dough into four portions. Work with one at a time, keeping the rest covered. Roll each portion very thin, about 2 millimeters, nearly translucent. The thinner you roll, the more dramatically it will puff. Cut into rectangles roughly 8 by 10 centimeters, or diamonds if you prefer. Make two small slits in the center of each piece with a sharp knife.
In a deep, heavy pan or Dutch oven, heat the lard or oil to 180°C (350°F). Use a thermometer. The temperature matters enormously. Too cool and the gnocco absorbs fat, becoming greasy and heavy. Too hot and the outside browns before the inside cooks through. Maintain this temperature throughout frying.
Slide two or three pieces of dough into the hot fat. Do not crowd the pan. They will sink briefly, then rise and begin to puff dramatically. Use a spider or slotted spoon to gently press them under the surface and turn them. They should puff into pillows and turn golden on both sides, about 1 to 2 minutes total. The sound should be vigorous bubbling, not lazy sputtering.
Transfer the fried gnocco to a tray lined with paper towels. Sprinkle immediately with flaky salt while the surface is still hot enough to make it stick. The gnocco should feel almost weightless in your hand. If they feel heavy or dense, your oil was not hot enough.
Gnocco fritto waits for no one. Arrange the warm pieces on a wooden board or in a cloth-lined basket alongside the sliced salumi. The prosciutto should be draped loosely, not stacked. Guests wrap the ham around the warm bread and eat with their hands. This is not elegant food. It is honest food. Serve while still crackling.
1 serving (about 230g)
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