Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy 12-inch ovenproof skillet (cast iron is ideal)
• •Instant-read meat thermometer
• •Sharp carving knife

Instructions

1. 1

   Temper the meat

   Remove the tenderloins from the refrigerator 45 minutes before cooking. Cold meat does not sear properly. It releases moisture instead of browning, and the interior cooks unevenly. Pat the pork completely dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and pepper on all sides.

2. 2

   Sear the pork

   Heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Add the olive oil. When the oil shimmers and flows easily across the pan, add the tenderloins. Do not move them. Let them sear undisturbed for 3 to 4 minutes until a deep golden crust forms. Turn and sear the second side. Continue turning to brown all surfaces evenly, about 10 to 12 minutes total. The meat should be deeply colored all around.

   The crust is not optional. It provides flavor, texture, and the fond that builds your sauce. If you move the meat too soon, you will not achieve this. Patience.
3. 3

   Add aromatics and butter

   Reduce heat to medium. Add the butter, rosemary, sage, and crushed garlic to the pan. As the butter foams, tilt the pan and baste the pork with the flavored butter for 2 minutes. The garlic should turn golden and fragrant. The herbs will sizzle and release their oils into the fat.

4. 4

   Finish in the oven

   Transfer the skillet to a 400°F oven. Cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part reads 140°F, about 8 to 12 minutes depending on thickness. The meat will continue cooking as it rests. Remove from oven, transfer the pork to a cutting board, and tent loosely with foil. Rest for 10 minutes. This is not optional. Cut into the meat before resting and you lose all those juices to the cutting board instead of the plate.

   Modern pork can be served at 145°F after resting, with a blush of pink at the center. The old fears of trichinosis required temperatures that made pork dry and flavorless. Times have changed. Let them.
5. 5

   Build the sauce

   While the meat rests, return the skillet to medium-high heat. Discard the garlic and herb sprigs. Add the white wine and scrape up all the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Let the wine reduce by half, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and reduce by half again. Add the balsamic vinegar and simmer until the sauce becomes syrupy and coats the back of a spoon, about 4 minutes. The sauce should be glossy, thick enough to cling but still pourable. Taste and adjust salt.

6. 6

   Slice and serve

   Slice the rested pork into medallions about half an inch thick. Arrange on a warm platter or individual plates. Spoon the balsamic glaze over and around the meat. Serve immediately. The glaze will begin to set as it cools, which is correct, but the dish is best eaten promptly.

Chef Tips

• •The balsamic vinegar determines this dish. Do not use the thin, harsh stuff sold in supermarkets for two dollars. Seek out vinegar labeled 'Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP' with an age statement, or true Tradizionale if your budget permits. You need not use the 25-year Tradizionale for cooking, but the vinegar must have density and sweetness from proper aging.
• •Ask your butcher to remove the silver skin, the thin membrane that runs along the tenderloin. It shrinks when heated and causes the meat to curl. If you must do it yourself, slide a sharp knife under the membrane and pull it away in strips.
• •The fond, those browned bits stuck to the pan after searing, contains concentrated flavor. This is why you deglaze with wine before building the sauce. Do not skip this step. Do not use a nonstick pan that prevents fond from forming.

Advance Preparation

• •The pork can be seared up to 2 hours ahead and held at room temperature, then finished in the oven and sauced just before serving. The initial sear sets the crust; the final cooking can be timed to your guests' arrival.
• •The balsamic sauce can be made ahead and reheated gently. Add a splash of stock if it has thickened too much.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 180g)