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Created by Chef Elsa
Warm broth-soaked potatoes and crispy Speck over tender Vogerlsalat, finished with a drizzle of dark Steirisches Kürbiskernöl and a soft-boiled egg that ties the whole bowl together.
The first time I tasted Kürbiskernöl, I was about eight years old and sitting in a Gasthaus in Graz with Gretel and my grandmother Eva. Gretel ordered a Vogerlsalat for the table and when the bowl arrived, this dark green oil was pooled across the leaves. I thought something had gone wrong. Then I tasted it. Nutty, almost sweet, with a depth that made the little round lettuce leaves taste like they'd been waiting their whole life for exactly that dressing. I've been hooked ever since.
Erdäpfel-Vogerlsalat mit Speck is the salad I put on my restaurant menu in Salzburg every autumn and keep there until spring. It's a composed salad, which in Austrian terms means each element is prepared separately, with care, and brought together on the plate so you can taste every part. Warm potatoes dressed in broth and vinegar while they're still hot. Crispy Speck fried until it shatters. A handful of Vogerlsalat, those small, nutty rosettes of lamb's lettuce that Austrians love. And a soft-boiled egg, split open at the table so the yolk runs into everything and becomes part of the dressing.
The technique here is not complicated, but the timing matters. The potatoes must be dressed while hot because that's when they absorb the broth and vinegar. The Speck must be crispy. The Vogerlsalat must be added last, barely dressed, so it stays tender and doesn't wilt under the warmth of everything else. Get those three things right and you have a salad that could anchor a whole meal. Good Austrian home cooking at its most honest.
Vogerlsalat, known as Feldsalat in Germany and mâche in France, has been foraged and cultivated in Austria since at least the 18th century. The name Vogerlsalat (literally 'little bird's salad') is distinctly Austrian. Pairing it with warm Erdäpfelsalat and Kürbiskernöl is a Styrian tradition rooted in the region's protected-origin pumpkin seed oil production, which dates to the 18th century in southeastern Styria. Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. received EU protected geographical indication status in 1996, making it one of Austria's most rigorously protected food products.
Quantity
600g
unpeeled
Quantity
200ml
homemade if possible
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 small
very finely diced
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
150g
sliced 3mm thick, cut into lardons
Quantity
150g
roots trimmed, washed and dried
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
Quantity
4 large
for soft-boiling
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| festkochende (waxy) potatoesunpeeled | 600g |
| warm beef brothhomemade if possible | 200ml |
| Apfelessig (apple cider vinegar) or Hesperidenessig | 3 tablespoons |
| white onionvery finely diced | 1 small |
| smooth Dijon mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| neutral oil (sunflower or rapeseed) | 3 tablespoons |
| salt and freshly ground black pepper | to taste |
| sugar | pinch |
| Speck (Austrian smoked bacon)sliced 3mm thick, cut into lardons | 150g |
| Vogerlsalat (lamb's lettuce)roots trimmed, washed and dried | 150g |
| Steirisches Kürbiskernöl g.g.A. (Styrian pumpkin seed oil) | 3 tablespoons |
| Apfelessig (for the Vogerlsalat) | 1 tablespoon |
| eggsfor soft-boiling | 4 large |
| flaky salt | for finishing |
Place the potatoes whole and unpeeled in a pot of well-salted cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook until a knife slides through the center without resistance, about twenty minutes depending on size. Don't rush this by cutting them smaller. Whole potatoes absorb less water, which means better flavor and a firmer texture when you slice them. Drain and let them sit just until you can handle them.
Peel the potatoes while they're still hot. Use a tea towel to hold them if you need to. Slice them into rounds about four millimeters thick, letting them fall into a wide, shallow bowl. You want a thin slice that can absorb the Marinade without falling apart, and you want them hot when the broth hits. This is the step where the salad is made or lost.
Warm the beef broth until it's properly hot. In a small bowl, whisk together the hot broth, three tablespoons of Apfelessig, the finely diced onion, mustard, neutral oil, a pinch of sugar, and a good amount of salt and pepper. Pour this Marinade over the warm potato slices immediately. Toss gently with your hands or a soft spatula, being careful not to break the slices. Let the potatoes sit for at least ten minutes to absorb the liquid. They'll drink up most of it. That's exactly what you want.
Bring a small pot of water to a rolling boil. Lower the eggs in gently with a spoon. Boil for exactly six and a half minutes. Transfer immediately to ice water and leave them there for at least three minutes. This gives you a yolk that's set at the edges but still molten and golden at the center. Peel carefully. The eggs can wait in their shells while you finish everything else.
Place the Speck lardons in a cold pan. Set it over medium heat. Let the fat render slowly as the pan comes up to temperature. This is not the same as throwing bacon into a hot pan. Starting cold draws the fat out gradually, and the Speck crisps evenly without burning at the edges while the center stays soft. After about five to seven minutes, the pieces should be deeply golden and crisp all the way through. Lift them out with a slotted spoon onto a piece of kitchen paper. Save a tablespoon of the rendered fat.
In a small bowl, whisk one tablespoon of Apfelessig with the reserved tablespoon of warm Speck fat and a pinch of salt. Toss the Vogerlsalat gently in this dressing. The warmth of the fat will barely soften the leaves without wilting them. Vogerlsalat is tender and bruises easily. Handle it like you're holding something you care about. Don't overdress it. You want each rosette lightly coated, not drowned.
Spoon the warm potato salad onto plates or into wide shallow bowls, spreading it into a generous bed. Pile the dressed Vogerlsalat loosely on top. Scatter the crispy Speck over everything. Halve the soft-boiled eggs and nestle them into the salad, yolk side up. Drizzle each plate with Kürbiskernöl. Let it fall in dark green ribbons across the potatoes and leaves. Finish with flaky salt over the egg yolks. Serve immediately while the potatoes are still warm and the Speck is still crisp. Mahlzeit!
1 serving (about 370g)
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