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Shatteringly crisp wonton purses filled with sweet crab and tangy cream cheese, fried golden and served with sweet chili sauce. The tiki-era classic deserves better than a steam table.
Crab rangoon belongs to that peculiar category of American food that pretends to be something else. You'll find it on Chinese takeout menus from coast to coast, yet no grandmother in Guangzhou ever made it. Credit goes to the tiki bars of the 1950s, where Trader Vic and his contemporaries invented a fantasy version of Pacific Rim cuisine. Cream cheese has never touched a wok in Canton. That doesn't make these any less delicious.
The filling takes five minutes to assemble. Sweet crab, tangy cream cheese, a whisper of garlic and green onion. The technique lives in the folding and the frying. Seal your edges properly or the filling leaks into the oil, creating an angry sputtering mess and a hollow shell. Maintain your oil temperature and you'll produce rangoons that shatter when you bite through, the filling stretching in strings between your teeth and the crisp shell.
I've seen home cooks defeat themselves with imitation crab guilt. Use the real thing when you can afford it. Dungeness from the Pacific, blue crab from the Chesapeake, whatever swims in your waters. But quality surimi works respectably here. The cream cheese carries enough richness to blur the distinction. This is party food, not a seafood showcase.
Quantity
8 ounces
at room temperature
Quantity
6 ounces
picked over for shells
Quantity
2
finely minced (white and light green parts)
Quantity
1 clove
minced to a paste
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
24
Quantity
1
beaten with 1 tablespoon water
Quantity
about 4 cups
Quantity
for serving
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| cream cheeseat room temperature | 8 ounces |
| lump crab meatpicked over for shells | 6 ounces |
| green onionsfinely minced (white and light green parts) | 2 |
| garlicminced to a paste | 1 clove |
| Worcestershire sauce | 1 teaspoon |
| soy sauce | 1/2 teaspoon |
| white pepper | 1/4 teaspoon |
| square wonton wrappers | 24 |
| eggbeaten with 1 tablespoon water | 1 |
| neutral oil for frying | about 4 cups |
| sweet chili sauce | for serving |
| flaky sea salt (optional) | for finishing |
Place softened cream cheese in a medium bowl. Add the crab meat, green onions, garlic paste, Worcestershire, soy sauce, and white pepper. Mix with a fork until thoroughly combined but not pureed. You want visible strands of crab throughout. The filling should be smooth enough to spread but textured enough to know what you're eating. Taste and adjust seasoning. The filling should taste slightly overseasoned now because the wrapper dilutes flavor.
Clear a section of counter and set out your wonton wrappers under a damp paper towel to prevent drying. Place the filling, egg wash, a pastry brush or your finger, and a parchment-lined baking sheet within arm's reach. You'll develop a rhythm. Assembly goes quickly once you start.
Place a wrapper on your work surface with one corner pointing toward you like a diamond. Spoon a scant tablespoon of filling into the center. Brush egg wash along all four edges. Fold the bottom corner up to meet the top corner, forming a triangle. Press firmly around the filling to eliminate air pockets, which cause rangoons to burst during frying. Now bring the two side corners together and overlap them slightly, pressing to seal with a dab of egg wash. The finished shape resembles a little nurse's cap or a bishop's mitre.
Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling, placing finished rangoons on your prepared baking sheet. Keep them in a single layer without touching. If you're working ahead, cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to four hours, or freeze them now for future use.
Pour oil into a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven to a depth of at least two inches. Clip a deep-fry thermometer to the side and heat over medium-high until the oil reaches 350°F. This takes longer than you expect, usually eight to ten minutes. Patience here prevents greasy, soggy results. While oil heats, line a baking sheet with a wire rack for draining.
Working in batches of four to six, carefully lower rangoons into the hot oil using a spider strainer or slotted spoon. Don't crowd the pot. Overcrowding drops the oil temperature and produces pale, greasy results. Fry for two to three minutes, turning once halfway through, until deeply golden and crisp on all sides. The wrapper should look blistered and crackly, the color of antique gold.
Transfer fried rangoons to the wire rack and immediately sprinkle with a pinch of flaky sea salt while the oil still glistens on the surface. The salt needs moisture to cling. Let rest for one minute before serving. This brief rest allows the interior to set and prevents burned tongues.
Arrange rangoons on a platter with a bowl of sweet chili sauce for dipping. Serve while the shells still crackle. Fried foods wait for no one. Encourage your guests to bite through carefully. The filling holds heat longer than the shell suggests.
1 serving (about 60g, 4 rangoons)
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