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Created by Chef Graziella
Thin Italian crepes wrapped around fresh ricotta brightened with garden herbs. A dish that proves breakfast can be civilized, that morning can begin with restraint and grace rather than excess.
Crespelle are what Italians call crepes, though they are not quite the same thing. The batter is lighter, thinner, almost translucent when cooked properly. French crepes can be sturdy. Italian crespelle should whisper.
The filling here is ricotta, and the quality of your ricotta will determine everything. The watery supermarket product sold in plastic tubs has nothing to do with real ricotta. Seek out fresh ricotta from an Italian market, or make it yourself from good milk. It should be creamy, slightly sweet, with the clean taste of fresh dairy. If your ricotta is grainy or sour, your crespelle will be ordinary.
The herbs are simple: parsley, basil, chives. Three. Not seven. The nutmeg is a whisper, a tradition from Emilia-Romagna where it appears in anything containing eggs and cheese. You should barely taste it, yet you would notice its absence.
This is breakfast as it should be. Quiet. Considered. Something you sit down to eat with proper coffee and the morning light coming through the window.
Crespelle appear in Italian cookery texts as early as the 14th century, when Florentine cooks wrapped thin batters around savory and sweet fillings for noble tables. The name derives from the Latin 'crispus,' meaning curled or wavy, describing the lacy edges that form in a hot pan. While the French perfected the street-corner crepe, Italians kept crespelle in the home kitchen, filling them with ricotta, spinach, or béchamel for family meals.
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
3
Quantity
1 cup
Quantity
2 tablespoons, plus more for the pan
melted
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon
Quantity
1 pound
drained if wet
Quantity
1/2 cup, plus more for serving
freshly grated
Quantity
1
Quantity
3 tablespoons
chopped fine
Quantity
2 tablespoons
cut into thin ribbons
Quantity
1 tablespoon
minced
Quantity
1/8 teaspoon
freshly grated
Quantity
to taste
freshly ground
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| all-purpose flour | 1 cup |
| large eggs | 3 |
| whole milk | 1 cup |
| unsalted buttermelted | 2 tablespoons, plus more for the pan |
| fine sea salt | 1/4 teaspoon |
| fresh ricottadrained if wet | 1 pound |
| Parmigiano-Reggianofreshly grated | 1/2 cup, plus more for serving |
| large egg yolk | 1 |
| fresh flat-leaf parsleychopped fine | 3 tablespoons |
| fresh basilcut into thin ribbons | 2 tablespoons |
| fresh chivesminced | 1 tablespoon |
| nutmegfreshly grated | 1/8 teaspoon |
| black pepperfreshly ground | to taste |
Put the flour in a bowl and make a well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well. Begin whisking the eggs, gradually drawing flour from the sides. Add the milk in a slow stream, whisking constantly until smooth. Whisk in the melted butter and salt. The batter should be thinner than pancake batter, like heavy cream. If lumps remain, strain through a fine sieve. Let the batter rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. This is not optional.
While the batter rests, make the filling. In a bowl, combine the ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, egg yolk, parsley, basil, chives, and nutmeg. Season with pepper and a small pinch of salt. Mix gently with a fork until just combined. The ricotta should remain light, not beaten into paste. Taste it. Adjust the seasoning. The filling should taste of fresh cheese and garden herbs, nothing more.
Heat an 8-inch nonstick pan or well-seasoned crepe pan over medium heat. Add a small piece of butter and swirl to coat. Pour a scant quarter cup of batter into the center of the pan and immediately tilt and rotate the pan so the batter covers the entire surface in a thin, even layer. Cook until the edges begin to turn golden and curl slightly away from the pan, about one minute. The underside should be pale gold with lacy brown spots.
Using your fingers or a thin spatula, flip the crespella and cook the second side for 30 seconds more. It should have light golden spots but remain pliable. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining batter, adding a small touch of butter before each crespella. Stack them as you go. You should have 8 crespelle.
Place a crespella on your work surface, prettier side down. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the ricotta filling in a line across the lower third. Fold the bottom edge up over the filling, then fold in the sides like an envelope, then roll into a neat cylinder. Place seam-side down on a serving plate. Repeat with remaining crespelle.
The crespelle can be served at room temperature, or warmed briefly. To warm them, place the filled crespelle in a buttered baking dish, dot with a little butter, and bake at 350 degrees for 10 minutes until just heated through. Grate fresh Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top and serve immediately. Do not overheat them. The filling should remain creamy, not dry.
1 serving (about 260g)
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