There are two kinds of lobster rolls in New England, and choosing between them reveals something about your character. Maine serves its lobster cold, dressed in mayonnaise, sometimes with celery for crunch. Connecticut takes another path entirely. Here, warm lobster meat meets melted butter in an embrace that requires no embellishment. The Connecticut style is the older preparation, the one that trusts the lobster to carry the dish.

I've eaten lobster rolls from Westbrook to Noank, standing at weathered counters overlooking Long Island Sound while butter dripped down my wrists. The best versions share a common philosophy: use excellent lobster, keep it warm, bathe it in good butter, and serve it in a proper split-top bun toasted until golden. That's the whole recipe. The technique lives in the details.

The split-top bun is non-negotiable. These New England-style rolls have flat sides that toast beautifully in butter, creating a crisp exterior that contrasts with the soft interior. Standard hot dog buns, with their rounded sides and hinged bottoms, simply won't do. If your supermarket doesn't stock them, a good bakery can help, or you can order them online. This is not the place to compromise.

Cooking your own lobsters produces the sweetest, most tender meat. But if time or nerve fails you, quality pre-cooked lobster from a reputable fishmonger will serve. What matters is freshness. Lobster should smell of the sea, clean and briny. Anything with a hint of ammonia has seen better days.