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Created by Chef Thomas
A five-minute summer soup served cold, the colour of a garden in July, tasting of everything good about peas and mint and the particular pleasure of a bowl that asks almost nothing of you.
The first properly warm evening of the year arrived last week. Not the tentative warmth of May, where you still carry a jacket, but the real thing: windows open, the garden smelling of cut grass, the kitchen too hot for anything involving the oven. That's when this soup earns its place.
Frozen peas. I'll say it plainly. Good frozen peas, picked and frozen within hours, are better than most of the fresh peas you'll find in a supermarket, which have been sitting around losing their sweetness since Tuesday. If you grow your own and can pod them straight into the pan, magnificent. Otherwise, a bag from the freezer is not a compromise. It's common sense.
The method is almost embarrassingly simple. Soften a shallot in butter. Add stock and peas. Cook for three minutes. Blend with mint. Chill. The whole thing takes less time than deciding what to order from a takeaway, and it tastes like July in a bowl. The colour alone is worth it: a vivid, clean green that looks like you've tried much harder than you have.
I make this more often than any other cold soup. I wrote it down in the notebook years ago with a note that said: peas, mint, cold bowl, the garden. That's still all there is to say about it. Right food, right evening.
Quantity
500g
or fresh peas, podded weight
Quantity
1 medium
finely sliced
Quantity
a knob
Quantity
500ml
Quantity
a generous handful
Quantity
half
juiced
Quantity
100ml, plus extra to serve
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
a few grinds
Quantity
for finishing
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| frozen peasor fresh peas, podded weight | 500g |
| shallotfinely sliced | 1 medium |
| unsalted butter | a knob |
| vegetable or light chicken stock | 500ml |
| fresh mint leaves | a generous handful |
| lemonjuiced | half |
| double cream | 100ml, plus extra to serve |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | a few grinds |
| good olive oil (optional) | for finishing |
Melt the butter in a saucepan over a gentle heat. Add the sliced shallot and a pinch of salt. Let it soften for two or three minutes, stirring now and then, until it turns translucent and sweet. You don't want any colour here. The shallot should disappear into the soup, not announce itself.
Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer. Add the peas straight from the freezer. Let them cook for no more than three minutes, just until they're tender and still properly green. Overcooked peas go grey and sad, and the whole point of this soup is its colour. Throw in the mint leaves in the last thirty seconds.
Take the pan off the heat. Blend until completely smooth. A stick blender will do it, though a countertop blender gives a finer, more velvety result if you've got one. Push it through a sieve if you want silk. I sometimes do, sometimes don't. Depends on the evening. Stir in the cream and the lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, then taste it. The lemon is important. It lifts the peas from sweet to bright.
Transfer to a bowl, press cling film directly onto the surface to keep the colour, and refrigerate until properly cold. At least two hours, longer if you can. When you're ready, ladle it into cold bowls. A swirl of cream, a thread of good olive oil, a few small mint leaves if you have them. That's it. We're only making dinner.
1 serving (about 290g)
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