Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Heavy-bottomed 10-inch skillet for toasting
• •Two rimmed baking sheets
• •Parchment paper or silicone baking mats
• •1/2 teaspoon measure
• •Thin offset spatula
• •Wire cooling rack

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the benne seeds

   Pour the sesame seeds into a dry skillet over medium heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon, watching them like a hawk. After three to four minutes, they'll begin to turn golden and release a fragrance that's nutty, almost intoxicating. The moment you see color developing, remove the pan from heat immediately. Seeds continue toasting in the hot pan, and burnt sesame is bitter beyond redemption. Transfer to a plate to cool completely.

   Listen for the seeds to start popping gently. That's your cue that they're nearly done.
2. 2

   Prepare baking sheets

   Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of your oven and preheat to 325°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats. These cookies spread aggressively and will fuse together without proper spacing, so you'll bake in batches.

3. 3

   Mix wet ingredients

   In a medium bowl, whisk together the melted butter and brown sugar until smooth and glossy. The mixture should look like wet sand at the beach. Add the beaten egg and vanilla, whisking until fully combined. You're building the base that will spread paper-thin in the oven.

4. 4

   Add dry ingredients

   In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Add this to the butter mixture and stir just until no dry streaks remain. Fold in the toasted benne seeds. The batter will be loose, almost pourable. This is correct. Trust it.

5. 5

   Portion the batter

   Drop level half-teaspoons of batter onto the prepared sheets, spacing them three inches apart in all directions. Yes, three inches. These spread into circles roughly two and a half inches across. You'll fit about twelve per standard baking sheet. Resist the temptation to make them larger.

   A small offset spatula helps release the sticky batter from your measuring spoon cleanly.
6. 6

   Bake until golden

   Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the sheets between racks and front to back at the halfway point. The wafers are done when they're deep golden brown across the entire surface with slightly darker, caramelized edges. Underbaked wafers stay chewy. You want them golden and honest, not pale and timid.

7. 7

   Cool completely on sheets

   Let the wafers cool on the baking sheets for a full five minutes. They'll be soft and pliable when they emerge from the oven, firming as they cool. After five minutes, transfer to a wire rack with a thin spatula. Handle them gently. They're delicate until they crisp completely, which takes another five minutes on the rack.

8. 8

   Continue with remaining batter

   Repeat with the remaining batter, allowing your baking sheets to cool between batches. Hot sheets cause the batter to spread too quickly, resulting in wafers that are too thin even by these standards. Patience here rewards you with consistent results.

Chef Tips

• •Seek out unhulled sesame seeds if you can find them at a specialty grocer or Asian market. They have a more complex, earthier flavor than the white hulled variety. Either will work, but unhulled seeds are more historically accurate to Charleston tradition.
• •These wafers are humidity's enemy. On damp days, they'll lose their crisp within hours. Store them in an airtight tin with a silica packet if you have one, or plan to serve them the day you bake.
• •Brown sugar varies in moisture content by brand. If your batter seems too thick to spread, add a teaspoon of melted butter. If it's so loose it runs, add a tablespoon more flour.
• •Pair these with a glass of sweet tea for the full Charleston experience, or serve alongside a cheese course where their nutty crunch complements aged cheddar or creamy brie.

Advance Preparation

• •Benne seeds can be toasted up to one week ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
• •The batter can be made and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Let it come to room temperature before baking, as cold batter won't spread properly.
• •Baked wafers keep in an airtight tin at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. Do not refrigerate or freeze, as moisture will destroy their crisp texture.
• •For gift-giving, layer wafers between sheets of wax paper in a decorative tin. They ship reasonably well in cool, dry weather.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 wafer (about 10g)