Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large pot for blanching
• •10-inch skillet
• •2-quart baking dish or gratin dish
• •Box grater or microplane for nutmeg

Instructions

1. 1

   Choose your chard

   Look for bunches with crisp, unwilted leaves and stems that snap when you bend them. The color does not matter so much. Red, rainbow, or green chard all cook the same. What matters is freshness. Leaves should look alive, not tired. Stems should feel firm, not rubbery. This is the foundation of the whole dish.

   Chard from a farmers market will have more flavor than anything shipped across the country. Ask when it was picked.
2. 2

   Separate stems and leaves

   Wash the chard well in cold water, swishing to release any grit. Lay each leaf flat and cut along both sides of the center rib, separating the tender green from the sturdy stem. Slice the stems into half-inch pieces. Roughly chop the leaves. Keep them separate. The stems need more time than the leaves, and treating them differently honors what each part offers.

3. 3

   Blanch the stems

   Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the chard stems and cook until just tender, about three minutes. They should yield to a knife but still have some texture. Lift them out with a slotted spoon and spread on a clean towel to drain. Keep the water boiling.

4. 4

   Blanch the leaves

   Add the chard leaves to the same boiling water. They will collapse quickly. Cook just until wilted and bright, about one minute. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Squeeze out as much water as you can. Wet greens make a watery gratin.

5. 5

   Build the base

   Heat two tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the minced shallot and cook until soft and fragrant, about two minutes. Add the garlic and stir for thirty seconds, just until you smell it. Pour in the cream and let it simmer gently for three to four minutes until it thickens slightly. Grate in the nutmeg. Season with salt and pepper. Taste it. The cream should be savory and aromatic.

6. 6

   Combine chard and cream

   Add the blanched stems and leaves to the cream mixture. Fold everything together gently. The greens should be coated but not swimming. Taste again and adjust the seasoning. Chard can handle salt, so do not be shy.

7. 7

   Assemble the gratin

   Preheat your oven to 400F. Butter a baking dish generously. Spread the chard mixture in an even layer. Scatter the grated gruyère over the top. The cheese will melt into the cream and form golden patches where it meets the heat.

8. 8

   Make the breadcrumb topping

   Toss the fresh breadcrumbs with olive oil, thyme leaves, and a pinch of salt. The crumbs should be lightly coated, not soggy. Scatter them evenly over the cheese. They will turn golden and crisp in the oven while the gratin bubbles beneath.

   Make breadcrumbs from bread that is a day or two old. Tear it into rough pieces and pulse in a food processor. Store-bought breadcrumbs lack soul.
9. 9

   Bake until golden

   Bake the gratin for twenty to twenty-five minutes until the cream is bubbling at the edges and the breadcrumbs are deeply golden. The top should look like something you want to break into with a spoon. Let it rest for five minutes before serving. This allows the cream to settle and the first bite to be perfect rather than scalding.

Chef Tips

• •Chard is available nearly year-round, but it peaks in spring and fall. Summer heat makes it bitter. Winter cold sweetens it. Ask your farmer what the weather has been like.
• •Gruyère aged six months or more has the best flavor for gratins. Young gruyère melts well but tastes like nothing in particular.
• •If you cannot find good chard, this technique works beautifully with beet greens, turnip greens, or a mix of whatever your farmer has too much of.
• •The gratin reheats well. Cover with foil and warm at 350F for fifteen minutes. The breadcrumbs will soften slightly but the flavor deepens overnight.

Advance Preparation

• •The chard can be blanched, squeezed dry, and refrigerated up to two days ahead. Bring to room temperature before assembling.
• •The entire gratin can be assembled, covered, and refrigerated for up to one day before baking. Add five to ten minutes to the baking time if starting cold.
• •Leftover gratin keeps refrigerated for three days. It makes an excellent bed for a fried egg at breakfast.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 165g)