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Created by Chef Remy
Tender chunks of catfish and buttery potatoes swimming in a creamy, well-seasoned broth built on the holy trinity, the kind of soul-warming bowl that proves budget-friendly cooking can be extraordinary.
Good food does not require expensive ingredients. My grandmother Evangeline fed a family of seven on a fisherman's budget, and nobody at that table ever felt poor. Catfish and potato chowder is that kind of cooking: humble ingredients transformed into something that wraps around you like a warm blanket on a chilly bayou evening.
The secret to a chowder worth eating is building flavor in layers before the dairy ever touches the pot. Season your fish first. Cook your trinity slow and patient. Add your spices to the broth and taste, taste, taste. Only then do you add the cream, when the foundation is already singing with flavor. Too many cooks pour in milk too early and wonder why their soup tastes flat. You cannot fix bland with cream. You fix it with seasoning, with technique, with love.
At Lagniappe, this chowder started as a staff meal on slow Monday nights. The cooks would bring in whatever catfish we had not sold over the weekend, and we would stretch it into enough soup to feed everyone. Word got out. Regulars started asking for it. Now it is on the menu every winter, and I still make it the same way: down and dirty Cajun, honest food that does not apologize for being simple.
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
cut into 1-inch chunks
Quantity
2 teaspoons, divided
Quantity
1 teaspoon, divided, plus more to taste
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
freshly ground
Quantity
4 tablespoons
Quantity
1 large
diced
Quantity
2
diced
Quantity
1 medium
diced
Quantity
4 cloves
minced
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 1/2 pounds
peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Quantity
4 cups
Quantity
2
Quantity
1/2 teaspoon
Quantity
1/4 teaspoon, or to taste
Quantity
1 1/2 cups
Quantity
1/2 cup
Quantity
3
sliced thin, white and green parts separated
Quantity
2 tablespoons
chopped
Quantity
for serving
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| catfish filletscut into 1-inch chunks | 1 1/2 pounds |
| Cajun seasoning | 2 teaspoons, divided |
| kosher salt | 1 teaspoon, divided, plus more to taste |
| black pepperfreshly ground | 1/2 teaspoon |
| unsalted butter | 4 tablespoons |
| yellow oniondiced | 1 large |
| celery stalksdiced | 2 |
| green bell pepperdiced | 1 medium |
| garlicminced | 4 cloves |
| all-purpose flour | 3 tablespoons |
| Yukon Gold potatoespeeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes | 1 1/2 pounds |
| chicken stock or fish stock | 4 cups |
| bay leaves | 2 |
| dried thyme | 1/2 teaspoon |
| cayenne pepper | 1/4 teaspoon, or to taste |
| whole milk | 1 1/2 cups |
| heavy cream | 1/2 cup |
| green onionssliced thin, white and green parts separated | 3 |
| fresh parsleychopped | 2 tablespoons |
| hot sauce (optional) | for serving |
Place the catfish chunks in a bowl and season with one teaspoon of Cajun seasoning, half a teaspoon of salt, and the black pepper. Toss gently to coat every piece. This is where flavor building starts. Season the protein first, always. Let it sit while you prep the vegetables so that seasoning has time to penetrate the fish.
Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. When it foams and the foam subsides, add the onion, celery, and bell pepper with a pinch of salt. The salt draws moisture and helps the vegetables soften without browning. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the trinity turns soft and translucent, about eight to ten minutes. Your kitchen will start smelling like Louisiana.
Add the garlic and the white parts of the green onions to the pot. Stir for about thirty seconds until fragrant. You will know because that garlic perfume will hit you. Now sprinkle in the flour and stir constantly for two minutes. This is a blond roux, just barely golden. It thickens the chowder and adds a subtle nuttiness without the deep color of a gumbo roux.
Pour in the stock slowly, stirring as you go to prevent lumps. Add the cubed potatoes, bay leaves, thyme, cayenne, and the remaining teaspoon of Cajun seasoning. Stir well, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom of the pot. Those bits are flavor. Bring everything to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer.
Let the chowder simmer uncovered for fifteen to twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. The potatoes are ready when a fork slides through them easily but they still hold their shape. Some will break down and thicken the broth naturally. That is exactly what you want. Taste the broth now. Adjust salt if needed. Build flavor before the dairy goes in, because once you add milk and cream, the window for seasoning closes.
Reduce heat to low. Stir in the milk and heavy cream. Let it warm through for three to four minutes, but do not let it boil. Boiling dairy in a chowder can cause it to break and turn grainy. You want this silky and smooth. The color should be creamy with specks of seasoning throughout.
Gently lower the seasoned catfish chunks into the simmering chowder. Do not stir aggressively or you will break the fish into shreds. Let it poach in the hot liquid for five to six minutes. The fish is done when it turns opaque and flakes easily when you press it with a spoon. Catfish is forgiving, but overcooked fish is a tragedy nobody deserves.
Remove the bay leaves. Taste the chowder one final time. This is your last chance. Adjust salt, add a pinch more cayenne if you want more warmth. Stir in the green onion tops and half the parsley. Ladle into deep bowls, garnish with remaining parsley, and serve with hot sauce on the side for those who want extra heat. When the last bite is as good as the first, you have done it right.
1 serving (about 350g)
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