Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Sharp chef's knife or butcher's knife
• •Large cutting board
• •Mixing bowl
• •Chilled serving plates

Instructions

1. 1

   Source the beef

   The quality of the beef is everything. There is nothing to hide behind. Seek out a butcher you trust and explain that you intend to eat the meat raw. You want beef that was cut that day, stored properly, and comes from a single muscle with no sinew. Tenderloin is traditional for its silkiness. Top round from the leg works beautifully and has more flavor. Either must be absolutely fresh.

   In Piedmont, they use fassone beef from the local breed. The meat is exceptionally lean and tender. Grass-fed beef with good marbling is your best substitute.
2. 2

   Prepare the beef

   Trim away any fat or silverskin. The meat should be pure, deep red muscle. Place it in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes. This firms it slightly and makes slicing easier. You do not want it frozen, only cold enough to hold its shape under the knife.

3. 3

   Chop by hand

   Remove the beef from the freezer. With a sharp knife, slice it as thin as you can manage, then cut those slices into thin strips, then chop the strips crosswise into small pieces. The final texture should be fine but not paste. You want to see distinct pieces of meat, each about the size of a lentil or small pea. This takes patience. A meat grinder destroys the texture. A food processor turns it to mush. There is no substitute for the knife.

   Work in batches if the beef begins to warm and stick. Return it to the freezer for five minutes, then continue. Cold beef chops cleanly. Warm beef smears.
4. 4

   Season the serving bowl

   Take a mixing bowl and rub the interior thoroughly with the cut side of the garlic clove. The garlic deposits its essence without overwhelming. Discard the garlic. It has done its work. This is the only garlic that belongs in this dish.

5. 5

   Dress the beef

   Place the chopped beef in the garlic-scented bowl. Add the olive oil and lemon juice. Season generously with salt and pepper. Toss gently with a fork, lifting from the bottom rather than pressing down. The beef should be evenly coated, glistening, each piece separate from the others. Taste and adjust. The lemon should brighten without dominating. The oil should give richness without slick. The salt must be present.

6. 6

   Serve immediately

   Divide among chilled plates, mounding the beef in the center. If using arugula, scatter a few leaves around the edges. If using Parmigiano, shave thin curls over the top. If you are fortunate enough to have white truffle, shave it generously at the table, where its perfume can be appreciated. Serve at once. The beef begins to oxidize and the lemon continues to work on the proteins. This is a dish of the moment.

Chef Tips

• •Speak with your butcher. Tell them you intend to eat the meat raw. A good butcher will cut from a fresh piece, trim it properly, and may even chop it for you if you explain what you need.
• •The lemon juice begins to cure the meat almost immediately. Dress the beef no more than five minutes before serving. Any longer and the texture changes, the color dulls.
• •White truffle is traditional in autumn, when Alba's famous tartufo bianco is in season. Without truffle, the dish stands perfectly on its own. Do not substitute truffle oil, which tastes of chemicals and pretension.
• •Some serve this with thin shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Others consider cheese a distraction. Both traditions exist in Piedmont. Choose according to your taste.

Advance Preparation

• •The beef can be trimmed and chilled hours ahead. Do not chop until just before serving.
• •This dish cannot be made in advance. The chopping, dressing, and serving should happen within 10 minutes. Once dressed, the clock is running.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 145g)