In Rome, the arrival of artichokes signals that winter has finally loosened its grip. The markets in Campo de' Fiori and Testaccio pile them high, their stems intact, their leaves still tight. Roman cooks know these artichokes by variety and by source. They know that the carciofo romanesco, round and thornless, is bred for this preparation. They know that the stems, which Americans discard, contain the same sweet flesh as the heart.

Carciofi alla Romana requires a specific herb that grows wild in the Roman countryside: mentuccia, a variety of mint with smaller leaves and a more delicate flavor than the mint sold in American markets. I have made this dish for fifty years, and I will tell you the truth. Regular mint combined with parsley comes close enough. Do not let the absence of mentuccia stop you from making this dish.

The technique is unusual. The artichokes braise stem-up, inverted from how they grow. This allows the leaves to open gently, the filling to penetrate, and the heart to cook through without the outer leaves turning to mush. The braising liquid, reduced to an intensely flavored oil, is meant to be spooned over each artichoke and soaked up with bread. What remains on the plate matters as much as what you put there.