Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Large wooden board for making pasta
• •Rolling pin or pasta machine
• •Fluted pastry wheel or sharp knife
• •Fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth
• •Large stockpot (at least 10 quarts)
• •Slotted spoon

Instructions

1. 1

   Start the broth

   Place the capon in a pot large enough to hold it comfortably with water to cover by two inches. Add the onion, carrots, celery, parsley stems, and peppercorns. Do not add salt yet. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. The moment it begins to bubble, reduce the heat to the lowest setting. The broth should barely move, with only an occasional bubble breaking the surface. Skim any foam that rises. Let it simmer for at least 3 hours.

   A capon is a castrated rooster, and its meat is richer than ordinary chicken. If unavailable, use a stewing hen or mature chicken plus extra backs for body. Do not use a young roasting chicken. It lacks the depth.
2. 2

   Make the pasta dough

   Mound the flour on a wooden board and create a well in the center. Crack the eggs into the well. Using a fork, beat the eggs gently, then begin incorporating flour from the inner walls of the well. When the mixture becomes too thick for the fork, use your hands. Knead the dough firmly, pushing with the heel of your palm, folding it over, turning it, pushing again. Continue for 10 minutes. The dough should become smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky but not sticky. If it sticks to your hands, add flour sparingly. Wrap in plastic and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.

3. 3

   Prepare the filling

   In a bowl, combine the drained ricotta, grated Parmigiano, egg, and nutmeg. Mix thoroughly until smooth and uniform. Season with a pinch of fine salt. The filling should taste of cheese, bright with Parmigiano, mellowed by ricotta. Taste it. Adjust if necessary. Refrigerate until ready to use.

   The ricotta must be well drained or your filling will weep and your pasta will become soggy. Set it in a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl overnight in the refrigerator. Press gently before using.
4. 4

   Roll the pasta

   Divide the rested dough into four pieces. Keep the pieces you are not working with covered. Using a rolling pin or pasta machine, roll each piece into a thin sheet. If using a machine, pass it through progressively thinner settings until you reach the second-thinnest. The pasta should be thin enough to see the shadow of your hand through it, but sturdy enough to hold the filling. Work quickly. Fresh pasta dries.

5. 5

   Cut the squares

   Using a knife or fluted pastry wheel, cut the pasta sheet into squares approximately 5 centimeters (2 inches) on each side. Cover cut squares with a barely damp towel as you work. You need them pliable, not dried and cracking.

6. 6

   Fill and fold the cappelletti

   Place a scant teaspoon of filling in the center of each square. Do not overfill. The pasta must close completely without splitting. Fold the square in half diagonally to form a triangle, pressing the edges firmly to seal, pushing out any air pockets. Then bring the two bottom corners of the triangle together, overlapping them slightly, and press to seal. The peak of the triangle should stand up like a little hat. This is the cappelletto shape. Work steadily. It becomes faster with practice.

   If the edges will not seal, brush them lightly with water. But if your dough is fresh and not dried out, water should not be necessary. The egg in the pasta is its own glue.
7. 7

   Finish the broth

   After 3 hours, the broth should be golden and deeply flavored. Remove the capon and vegetables. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Season with salt. The broth should taste full but not aggressive. You want it to complement the cheese filling, not overpower it. Return to a clean pot and keep at a gentle simmer.

8. 8

   Cook and serve

   Drop the cappelletti into the simmering broth in batches, no more than 20 at a time. Do not crowd them or they will stick together. Cook until they float and the pasta is tender but with pleasant resistance, 3 to 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to warm shallow bowls. Ladle the hot broth over them. Pass grated Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table. Once the pasta is sauced, serve it promptly, inviting your guests and family to put off talking and start eating.

Chef Tips

• •The distinction between cappelletti and tortellini is not trivial. In Romagna, cappelletti contain cheese. In Bologna, tortellini contain meat. To serve meat-filled pasta and call it cappelletti marks you as someone who does not understand Italian regional cooking.
• •Make the broth a day ahead. Refrigerate it overnight, then lift off the solidified fat in the morning. The clarity improves and the work is divided sensibly.
• •The capon meat, once the broth is made, can be shredded and served with salsa verde as a separate course. Nothing is wasted.
• •Fresh cappelletti can be frozen on a sheet pan, then transferred to bags. Cook directly from frozen, adding a minute to the cooking time. They keep for two months.

Advance Preparation

• •The broth can be made 3 days ahead and refrigerated. Remove the fat cap before reheating.
• •The filling can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated.
• •Shaped cappelletti can be frozen for up to 2 months. Freeze in a single layer on sheet pans, then transfer to freezer bags.
• •For Christmas dinner, make the broth and filling the day before. Shape the cappelletti Christmas morning. This is how the rhythm of the holiday works in Romagna.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 400g)