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Buttered Garden Peas with Mint

Buttered Garden Peas with Mint

Created by Chef Thomas

Fresh peas from the pod, turned quickly in butter with torn mint leaves, the kind of side dish that tastes like the garden in June and needs nothing more than it already has.

Side Dishes
British
Weeknight
Quick Meal
10 min
Active Time
3 min cook13 min total
Yield4 servings

June is the month you wait for if you grow peas. The plants have been climbing their canes since April, all leaf and tendril and quiet purpose, and then one morning you part the foliage and find the first fat pods hanging there, cool to the touch. You pick a handful. You eat one standing in the garden. The rest make it to the kitchen.

There's nothing to this recipe. That's the point. Fresh peas need butter, a scattering of mint, two minutes in a warm pan, and the good sense to leave them alone. The sweetness is already there. The colour is already there. Your job is to not get in the way. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract, and this one is a short conversation. Three ingredients. One pan. Less than a quarter of an hour from garden to table.

I put a bowl of these in front of someone last summer and they ate the lot before the lamb had even been carved. Nobody apologised. I wrote it down in the notebook: peas, butter, mint, gone. There are few better feelings than putting a warm plate in front of someone and watching it empty without a word.

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Ingredients

fresh peas in their pods

Quantity

500g (or 250g podded weight)

podded

unsalted butter

Quantity

a generous knob

fresh mint leaves

Quantity

small handful

torn

fine sea salt

Quantity

to taste

black pepper

Quantity

to taste

Equipment Needed

  • Wide shallow pan or skillet
  • Warm serving bowl

Instructions

  1. 1

    Pod the peas

    Sit down with the bowl of pods and run your thumb along the seam. They split open with a satisfying click. The peas inside should be bright, sweet, and firm. Eat a few raw as you go. This is not optional. A pea straight from its pod tastes like the garden smells, green and clean and faintly sweet, and it tells you everything you need to know about how to cook them: barely.

    If the peas are starchy and dull when eaten raw, they've been sitting too long. They'll still cook up fine, but give them an extra thirty seconds in the pan and a touch more butter.
  2. 2

    Cook in butter

    Melt the butter in a wide pan over a medium heat. When it foams and starts to smell warm and sweet, add the peas. Stir them through the butter so they're coated, then let them cook for a minute or two. No more. You want them hot and glossy, still bright green, still with a bit of resistance when you bite one. The moment they turn dull or soft, you've gone too far.

    A wide pan matters. Peas heaped in a small saucepan stew rather than cook. Give them room and they'll stay vivid.
  3. 3

    Finish with mint

    Take the pan off the heat. Tear the mint leaves over the peas, not chopped, torn, so the edges bruise and release their oil. Season with salt and a grind of black pepper. Toss everything together once and turn out into a warm bowl. The butter will have gone slightly green from the peas. The mint will hit you before you've picked up your fork. Serve straight away. Peas don't wait.

Chef Tips

  • Fresh peas from the pod are a different ingredient entirely from frozen peas. If you can get them, get them. But this is a narrow window, late May to July in a good year, and outside it you're better off with frozen petits pois than with fresh peas that have lost their sugar on a shelf. Frozen peas picked and frozen within hours are an honest ingredient. Stale fresh peas are a disappointment pretending to be a virtue.
  • Don't boil them. I know every recipe you've ever read says to boil peas. But if they're fresh and sweet, boiling washes out half the flavour and all the texture. Butter in a pan. Two minutes. That's it.
  • Tear the mint, don't chop it. A knife bruises the leaf in straight lines; your fingers bruise it unevenly, releasing more oil. The smell when you tear fresh mint over hot butter and peas is one of the best arguments for growing your own herbs. Spearmint or garden mint, not peppermint. Peppermint belongs in tea, not on your dinner.

Advance Preparation

  • Pod the peas up to a few hours ahead and keep them covered in the fridge. Don't leave them overnight. Their sugar starts converting to starch the moment they leave the pod.
  • This is not a dish that reheats or waits. Cook it last, serve it first. Everything else can sit for a minute while the peas are eaten.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 70g)

Calories
95 calories
Total Fat
5 g
Saturated Fat
3 g
Trans Fat
0 g
Unsaturated Fat
2 g
Cholesterol
14 mg
Sodium
290 mg
Total Carbohydrates
9 g
Dietary Fiber
4 g
Sugars
4 g
Protein
3 g

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