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Broccoli simmered with potato and good stock, then stirred through with enough Stilton to make the whole bowl rich and savoury and deeply satisfying, without a drop of cream in sight.
January. The garden is bare and the kitchen window is fogged. There's a head of broccoli on the counter and a wedge of Stilton wrapped in paper in the fridge, left over from Christmas or bought on Saturday because it looked right. This is the soup that brings them together.
The broccoli does the work. Good broccoli, the dense, dark sort with tight florets and a thick stalk you can peel and use, has a green, peppery depth that most people never find because they boil it into submission. Here it gets simmered gently in stock and blended until smooth. Then the Stilton goes in. Not too much. Enough to make the soup savoury and rich, with that particular blue-cheese warmth that settles into you on a cold evening. You don't need cream. The cheese does everything cream would do and more, because it brings flavour with it.
I make this when the weather is honest about being winter and I want something that fills the kitchen with a smell that says someone is paying attention. A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. Start here and adjust to your own taste: more cheese if you like it bold, less if you want the broccoli to lead. Your kitchen, your rules.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago. Just three words: broccoli, Stilton, Wednesday. It said enough.
Quantity
1 large head (about 400g)
broken into florets, stalk peeled and chopped
Quantity
1 medium
roughly chopped
Quantity
1 stick
sliced
Quantity
30g
Quantity
1 medium
peeled and roughly chopped
Quantity
750ml
Quantity
150g
crumbled
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
a few small
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| broccolibroken into florets, stalk peeled and chopped | 1 large head (about 400g) |
| onionroughly chopped | 1 medium |
| celerysliced | 1 stick |
| unsalted butter | 30g |
| potatopeeled and roughly chopped | 1 medium |
| vegetable or chicken stock | 750ml |
| Stiltoncrumbled | 150g |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| broccoli florets for finishing (optional) | a few small |
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan over a low heat. Add the onion and celery with a pinch of salt. Stir them through and let them sweat gently for eight to ten minutes, lid on, stirring once or twice. You want them soft and translucent, giving off that sweet, quiet smell that means the kitchen is working. No colour. If they start to catch, the heat wants turning down.
Add the potato and the broccoli (stalks and florets, keeping a few small florets back for the end). Pour in the stock. It should just about cover everything. If it doesn't, add a splash of water. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for fifteen minutes, lid slightly ajar, until the broccoli is tender and the potato gives way to a knife without resistance. Don't overcook the broccoli into greyness. You want it soft but still green.
Take the pan off the heat. Blend until smooth with a stick blender, or in batches in a jug blender if that's what you have. The texture should be velvety and even, no lumps, no grit from the stalks. If it feels too thick, loosen it with a little more stock. You're after something that pours from the ladle in a slow, easy stream.
Return the pan to a low heat. Crumble in the Stilton, stirring as it melts into the soup. It will go from lumpy to smooth in a minute or so, and the colour will shift from bright green to something deeper and more serious. Taste it. The cheese brings its own salt, so go carefully. You may not need any more. A few grinds of black pepper. That's it.
While the soup warms through, blanch the reserved broccoli florets in boiling salted water for two minutes, then drain. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Scatter the blanched florets over the top with a few crumbles of Stilton broken straight from the block. Serve with bread that can stand up to it: something crusty, torn, not sliced.
1 serving (about 385g)
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