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Created by Chef Graziella
The chocolate custard of Piedmont, dense with cocoa and crushed amaretti, crowned with bitter caramel. This is the dessert your Torinese grandmother made for feast days.
Panna cotta has seduced the world, but bonet is the dessert Piedmontese grandmothers actually made. It sat in the cold room overnight, waiting for Sunday pranzo. The children asked for it by name. No one asked for panna cotta because panna cotta was restaurant food, invented to impress tourists. Bonet was home.
The name means 'hat' in Piedmontese dialect, a reference to the copper mold that gave it shape. The custard is dense, almost fudgy, dark with cocoa and studded with crushed amaretti. The rum is not optional. It cuts through the richness and makes the chocolate sing. Without it, you have a pleasant dessert. With it, you have bonet.
This is a forgiving recipe if you understand one thing: custards demand gentle heat. Rush the oven and you will have sweet scrambled eggs surrounded by caramel. Give it time, let the water bath do its work, and you will unmold something that proves Piedmont understood chocolate long before anyone called it a chocolate region.
Bonet predates chocolate in Piedmont by several centuries. Medieval versions combined eggs, milk, and amaretti without cocoa, which arrived only after Spanish ships brought cacao from the Americas. By the 18th century, when Turin's chocolatiers were inventing gianduja and bicerin, the chocolate bonet had become the definitive version, the earlier recipes nearly forgotten.
Quantity
1 cup, divided
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
4
Quantity
2
Quantity
2 1/2 cups
Quantity
1/3 cup
unsweetened
Quantity
4 ounces (about 20 small cookies)
finely crushed
Quantity
3 tablespoons
Quantity
1 teaspoon
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| granulated sugar | 1 cup, divided |
| water | 3 tablespoons |
| large eggs | 4 |
| large egg yolks | 2 |
| whole milk | 2 1/2 cups |
| Dutch-process cocoa powderunsweetened | 1/3 cup |
| amaretti cookiesfinely crushed | 4 ounces (about 20 small cookies) |
| dark rum | 3 tablespoons |
| pure vanilla extract | 1 teaspoon |
Combine half a cup of sugar with the water in a small heavy saucepan. Stir once to moisten the sugar, then stop stirring entirely. Place over medium-high heat and cook, swirling the pan occasionally but never stirring, until the sugar turns deep amber. This takes 8 to 10 minutes. Watch carefully in the final minutes. Caramel goes from perfect to burnt in seconds.
Immediately pour the hot caramel into a 6-cup ring mold or 9-inch round cake pan. Wearing oven mitts, tilt the pan to coat the bottom and partway up the sides. Work quickly. The caramel hardens within a minute. Set aside while you prepare the custard. Preheat your oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit.
Pour the milk into a medium saucepan and heat over medium until small bubbles form around the edges. Do not boil. Remove from heat.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and egg yolks with the remaining half cup of sugar until pale and slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Sift in the cocoa powder and whisk until no lumps remain. The mixture will be thick and dark, like chocolate paste.
Whisking constantly, pour the warm milk into the chocolate mixture in a slow, steady stream. If you add it too fast, you will cook the eggs. Once combined, stir in the crushed amaretti, rum, and vanilla. The amaretti will absorb liquid and soften. Let the mixture rest 5 minutes.
Pour the custard into the caramel-lined mold. Place the mold inside a larger roasting pan. Transfer to the oven, then pour hot water into the roasting pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the mold. This gentle, surrounding heat prevents curdling.
Bake until the custard is set around the edges but still trembles slightly in the center when gently shaken, 55 to 70 minutes. The timing depends on your mold depth. A shallow pan cooks faster. Do not wait for the center to be completely firm. It continues cooking after you remove it from the oven.
Carefully remove the mold from the water bath. Let it cool to room temperature on a wire rack, about 1 hour. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 8 hours or overnight. The custard must be thoroughly cold before unmolding.
Run a thin knife around the edge of the custard. Place a serving plate over the mold, then invert both together in one confident motion. The bonet should release onto the plate, caramel pooling around it like a dark mirror. If it resists, dip the bottom of the mold briefly in hot water. Cut into wedges and serve cold.
1 serving (about 155g)
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