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Created by Chef Thomas
Boiled eggs wrapped in a dark, spiced coat of sausage meat and crumbled black pudding, fried to a deep gold. The kind of thing you eat standing up in the kitchen, still warm, with mustard on your thumb.
October, and the market had black pudding from the same stall that's been there since before I started going. A good one, dark and crumbly, with enough oatmeal and spice to smell like a proper kitchen. I brought it home with some sausage meat and half a dozen eggs and knew what the afternoon was going to look like.
A scotch egg is a generous thing. There's no delicate way to eat one, and that's part of the appeal. You pick it up, you bite through the crust into the meat, and then the egg gives way in the middle. When the black pudding is mixed through the sausage meat, the whole thing goes darker, richer, with that warm, iron-edged savouriness that pudding brings to anything it touches. It smells of the north.
This is picnic food, or cold-weather food eaten at the kitchen table with a jar of mustard and a few pickled onions. It travels well, wrapped in greaseproof paper in a bag. It tastes just as good cold the next day, maybe better, the flavours settled and firm. I wrote it down in the notebook: "Black pudding scotch eggs. October. Worth the mess."
A recipe is a conversation, not a contract. If your butcher's pudding is different from mine, if your eggs are a different size, adjust. Trust your hands. The wrapping is the only part that takes a bit of care, and even that gets easier after the second one.
Quantity
7 large
Quantity
400g
Quantity
200g
skin removed, crumbled
Quantity
1 teaspoon
Quantity
a few gratings
Quantity
a few
finely chopped
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
to taste
Quantity
75g
for coating
Quantity
100g
Quantity
for deep frying
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| free-range eggs | 7 large |
| pork sausage meat | 400g |
| black puddingskin removed, crumbled | 200g |
| English mustard | 1 teaspoon |
| nutmeg | a few gratings |
| sage leavesfinely chopped | a few |
| fine sea salt | to taste |
| black pepper | to taste |
| plain flourfor coating | 75g |
| fresh white breadcrumbs | 100g |
| vegetable or sunflower oil | for deep frying |
Bring a pan of water to a rolling boil. Lower six of the eggs in gently with a spoon and cook for exactly six and a half minutes. You want the white set firm and the yolk still soft in the centre, somewhere between jammy and just-set. The moment the time is up, lift them out and drop them into a bowl of iced water. Leave them there for at least five minutes. Cold eggs peel cleanly. Warm eggs don't. Peel them carefully. The shell should come away in a few pieces if they've cooled properly. Set them aside.
Crumble the black pudding into a bowl, breaking it up with your fingers until there are no large lumps. Add the sausage meat, the mustard, the nutmeg, and the chopped sage. Season with a little salt (the pudding is already well seasoned, so go carefully) and a good grinding of pepper. Mix it all together with your hands until the black pudding is distributed evenly through the sausage meat. The mixture should be dark, speckled, and smell warmly of spice. Fry a small pinch in a pan and taste it. Adjust the seasoning now, not later.
Divide the meat mixture into six equal portions. Flatten each one into a rough oval on a floured surface, about as thick as a fifty-pence piece. Dust a peeled egg lightly in flour, set it in the centre of the meat, and bring the edges up around it, pressing and smoothing gently until the egg is completely enclosed. Try to keep the thickness even all the way round. No thin spots. No cracks. Wet your hands slightly if the meat sticks. Repeat with the remaining eggs.
Set up three shallow bowls: flour in the first, the remaining egg beaten in the second, breadcrumbs in the third. Roll each wrapped egg in flour, shaking off the excess. Dip it into the beaten egg, turning to coat it completely. Then roll it through the breadcrumbs, pressing them on gently so they stick. A good even coating is what you want. If you prefer a thicker crust, dip in egg and crumbs a second time.
Fill a deep, heavy-bottomed pan about a third full with oil and heat it to 160C. If you don't have a thermometer, drop a breadcrumb in: it should fizz steadily and turn golden in about thirty seconds. Lower the scotch eggs in, two or three at a time so you don't crowd the pan, and fry for seven to eight minutes, turning them occasionally so they colour evenly. The crust should be a deep, burnished gold, and when you lift one out it should feel firm all the way through. Drain on kitchen paper. Let them rest for a few minutes before cutting.
Let them sit on the kitchen paper for five minutes. This isn't optional. The meat finishes cooking in the residual heat, and the egg settles. Cut one in half to check: a ring of dark, spiced meat around a just-set yolk that's still golden in the middle. Serve warm or at room temperature with a good mustard and something sharp alongside, pickles, or a simple dressed salad of bitter leaves.
1 serving (about 180g)
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