This slaw appeared on American restaurant menus in the 1980s, part of the fusion movement that finally acknowledged Asian techniques belonged in mainstream kitchens. It became a potluck staple for good reason: the flavors are universally appealing, it travels well, and it feeds a crowd without requiring a second mortgage.

The genius lives in the textural contrast. You have the tender crunch of Napa cabbage, the snap of raw vegetables, the buttery yield of toasted almonds, and then those crispy wonton strips shattering across the top. Each forkful should deliver all of these sensations. This requires proper timing. Dress the slaw too early and it wilts. Add the wontons too soon and they turn to paste.

The dressing deserves your attention. A proper emulsion transforms this from a collection of vegetables into a unified dish. You'll whisk the oil into the vinegar slowly, watching it thicken and cling. This isn't difficult, but it does require intention. The sesame oil goes in at the end, just enough to perfume without overwhelming. Sesame has a loud voice. Let it sing harmony, not lead.