Ingredients

Equipment Needed

• •Wide heavy-bottomed pot or deep skillet with lid
• •Wooden spoon
• •Terracotta serving dish (optional but traditional)

Instructions

1. 1

   Season the fish

   Season the monkfish chunks generously with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature while you build the base. The fish needs these 15 to 20 minutes to come to temperature. Cold fish in hot broth cooks unevenly.

2. 2

   Build the refogado

   Heat the azeite in a wide, heavy-bottomed pot or deep skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 12 minutes. You're not looking for color here. Just softness. Add the garlic and the chopped coentros stems, cooking another 2 minutes until fragrant. The stems hold flavor that would be wasted if you threw them away.

   Separar as águas: the stems go in now for depth; the leaves come at the end for brightness. Different jobs, same herb.
3. 3

   Add tomato and paprika

   Add the chopped tomatoes, paprika, bay leaf, and piri-piri if using. Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until the tomato breaks down and the mixture becomes a thick, rich paste, about 8 minutes. This is the soul of the dish. You'll see the oil start to separate from the tomato at the edges. That's when you know it's ready.

4. 4

   Deglaze with wine

   Pour in the white wine and let it bubble vigorously for a minute or two, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom. The alcohol should cook off, leaving just the fruit and acidity behind. Your kitchen will smell like a fishing village tavern. This is correct.

5. 5

   Toast the rice

   Add the rice to the pot and stir to coat every grain in the refogado. Let it toast for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. The grains should become slightly translucent at the edges. This step builds a nutty depth and helps the rice absorb liquid evenly.

   Never rinse the rice for this dish. You want that starch. It's what makes arroz malandrinho creamy, loose, almost soupy. That's the texture you're after.
6. 6

   Cook the rice

   Add the warm fish stock all at once. Stir well, bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook uncovered for about 12 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. The rice should be almost done but still have a slight bite. The liquid should still be loose and brothy. This isn't a pilaf. Portuguese rice swims.

7. 7

   Add the monkfish

   Nestle the seasoned monkfish chunks into the rice, pressing them gently into the liquid. Don't stir. Let them cook undisturbed for 6 to 8 minutes. The fish is done when it's opaque throughout and flakes easily but still holds its shape. Tamboril is forgiving, but overcooking makes it tough.

8. 8

   Rest and finish

   Remove from heat and let rest for 3 minutes. The rice will absorb a bit more liquid but should still be loose and creamy. Remove the bay leaf. Scatter the chopped coentros leaves over the top. Taste and adjust salt. Serve immediately in the pot or a warm terracotta dish, with lemon wedges on the side. This dish waits for no one.

Chef Tips

• •Ask your fishmonger to remove the membrane from the monkfish tail. It shrinks when cooked and distorts the flesh. If you must do it yourself, slide a sharp knife under the grey membrane and pull it away in strips.
• •Make your own fish stock from the monkfish bones if you have them, or from any white fish scraps. Simmer with onion, bay leaf, and a splash of wine for 30 minutes. Nothing from a cube will give you the same depth.
• •The rice should be malandrinho, loose and brothy, not dry. If it tightens too much, add a splash of warm stock before serving. It will continue absorbing liquid as it sits.
• •Some cooks add a handful of clams or mussels in the last 5 minutes. This is showing off, but it's also delicious. Make sure they open before serving.

Advance Preparation

• •The refogado base can be made several hours ahead through step 4. Let it cool, then refrigerate. Reheat gently before continuing.
• •Fish stock can be made 2 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for up to 3 months.
• •This dish cannot be made ahead. The rice must be served immediately while it's still loose and the fish is just cooked. Leftovers can be reheated with additional stock, but they won't have the same magic.

Frequently Asked Questions

Nutrition Information

1 serving (about 500g)