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Created by Chef Thomas
Salted anchovies pressed into hot buttered toast, sharp with lemon and cayenne, the kind of thing you eat standing at the kitchen counter with a glass of cold wine and nothing else planned.
Late in the evening, after everything else has been cleared away, there are times when the only thing that feels right is something salty and sharp on hot bread. Anchovy toast is that thing. It isn't a recipe in any meaningful sense. It's an assembly. But it's an assembly that has outlasted most of what passes for clever food, and it will outlast whatever comes next.
The Victorians served it as a savoury at the end of a long dinner, a sharp note after the pudding, something to reset the palate before the port. I serve it because it takes five minutes and tastes like exactly what I want at nine o'clock on a Thursday when the kitchen is quiet and there's half a bottle of something cold in the fridge. Different centuries, same instinct.
You need three things and none of them can be poor. Good bread, the kind with a crust that resists the knife. Real butter, unsalted, so you control the salt. And anchovies worth eating, dark and soft and rich, from a tin you'd happily open just to smell. Gentleman's Relish if you can find it, that peculiar, pungent paste that tastes of anchovy and butter and spice and something faintly Victorian that nobody has ever quite been able to name. Either way. Your kitchen, your rules.
I wrote it down in the notebook years ago. Just three words: anchovies, butter, toast. It didn't need more. Some things don't.
Quantity
4 thick slices
cut from a proper loaf
Quantity
generous knob
softened
Quantity
8-10
or use Gentleman's Relish (Patum Peperium)
Quantity
a squeeze
Quantity
pinch
Quantity
small handful
roughly chopped
| Ingredient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| good white breadcut from a proper loaf | 4 thick slices |
| unsalted buttersoftened | generous knob |
| salted anchovy filletsor use Gentleman's Relish (Patum Peperium) | 8-10 |
| lemon juice | a squeeze |
| cayenne pepper | pinch |
| flat-leaf parsley (optional)roughly chopped | small handful |
Get the bread under a hot grill or into a toaster. You want proper colour on it, golden and firm enough to hold butter without collapsing, but not so dark it tastes of carbon. Watch it. Toast turns in seconds. If you have a grill, toast one side first, then the other. The control is better and you get that slightly uneven char that a toaster can't manage.
The moment the toast comes out, butter it. Generously. The bread should be hot enough that the butter melts on contact and soaks in slightly, leaving the surface glossy. This is not the time for restraint. Cold butter on cooling toast is a missed opportunity.
If you're using whole fillets, lay them across the buttered toast, two or three per slice, pressing them gently into the warm butter so they soften and begin to melt at the edges. If you're using Gentleman's Relish, spread it thinly. It's concentrated stuff, salty and pungent and a little goes a long way. You can always add more. You can't take it back.
A squeeze of lemon over the top. Not much. Just enough to cut through the salt and the butter. A bare dusting of cayenne if you want a bit of warmth at the back of the throat. Parsley if it's there, chopped roughly and scattered over. Cut the toast in half on the diagonal, put it on a warm plate, and carry it to whoever is waiting. Eat it standing up in the kitchen or sitting down with a glass of cold white wine. Both are correct.
1 serving (about 130g)
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